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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 6:52 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1402
EDIT


Last edited by mydmax on Sat Apr 21, 2018 10:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 6:52 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
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Foreveraproject

Have you ever thought of fairing in the flat area around the tow receiver and T slots? It seems as though if in sand or mud and relying on departure angle, that rear bar will act as a retarding grader blade and ensure forward motion is less or just stop you going forward.


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 1:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 9:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: QLD, Australia
A couple more Jobs:

1: Installing a Dual Battery volt gauge, so ive got a bit more of an idea on what is happening charge wise. Found this unit at JAYCAR, wasn't too exxy and has a low current draw. Just took a bit of cutting with the dremel to fit it cleanly in the space where two switch blanks were. Ive also added a switch next to it so I can turn the gauge off when I don't want to see it/get blinded by the redness. Either way ALOT cheaper than a redarc/projecta gauge.

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 9:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: QLD, Australia
Job 2:

Replace the sh*tty stock dmax speakers..... the stock 6x9s are 20W!!!!!!

I wanted to replace the front and rear speakers and put insulation in each door aswell to keep things a bit less 'tinny' and help with NVH levels. But without going crazy and spending $1 000 000 on dynamatt. I kept all of this under $300.

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Old V New

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Yes they really are only 20w!
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Took the best part of a weekend due to cramped single garage ive got now. But the sound is much much better. I didn't really want to add an amp or Sub (i'll leave that to my sunday car). But the insulation from JAYCAR is noticeably good.


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 7:58 pm
Posts: 224
Location: Brisbane
MMMMM new speakers. Another thing to add to the list. Good job.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 5:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 9:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: QLD, Australia
Good news.

My AFN bulbar has turned up! Yew, its been a bit of a wait, its been on order since early April. But it'll mean that all the bar work is done, I can finally finish mounting my spotties and UHF.

Then with that weight sorted I can get around to doing my suspension and tyres.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:24 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 9:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: QLD, Australia
Update:

Fitted some free wheeling hubs.

I decided to treat myself and brought some brand spanker AISIN hubs from roadrunner offroad. Instead of going the 2nd hand route.

My reasoning was: to be able to use low-range while in 2wd, ie reversing a trailer, Not having all of my front end driveline spinning on the highway for no apparent reason. Lastly, in the unlikely event that I bust a CV I can srill drive home without having to pull the front end apart and take it out.


Since fitting them ive noticed that the steering 'feels' a tad lighter, but the marginal fuel economy improvement (0.1L/100) is negligible.


Tips for Fitting:

1) Use an Anaerobic gasket sealant, this will give a lot more 'contact' and be far more resistant to shear than the paper gasket that comes with the hubs. Either Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813 (They cross reference as the same P/N anyway, but the Permatex being half the price). You'll only need a small amount on each surface (correctly degreased of course) and you'll end up with hubs that are a lot less likely to come loose.

2) Use feeler gauges to make sure the end play in the axle to hub is between 0.1mm-0.2mm. You can buy different thickness shims from Isuzu for $6/$7 each from memory. Each side will have a couple of shims on them from factory so all you'll need to do is some re-arranging to get the correct tolerance. I bought a couple of each and it was more than enough to do both sides.


The Part numbers for the shims are:

914178929 8-94178-929-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=0.2mm
914178930 8-94178-930-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=0.3mm
914178931 8-94178-931-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=0.5mm
914178932 8-94178-932-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=1mm


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New shims bought from Isuzu
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Step 1)
Remove Plastic Cover
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Thats the factory full time hub you are removing, note the circlip and factory shims underneath.
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That's the end play you are going to re create once the new hub is installed
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factory circlip and shims removed
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factory hub removed
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Small amount of sealant applied to both surfaces
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Hub installed, shims removed/replaced accordingly to make the 0.1/0.2mm gap
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Finished, Note a small amount of bearing grease added to inside the hub. this doesn't need to be full of grease as it would stop the hubs from working, just a small amount to keep the operation smooth.
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Not shown in the pictures is the OE plastic hub caps. I Holesaw'ed a 100mm (approx) hole out of them which makes the wheel look a lot tider when re installed.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 9:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: QLD, Australia
AFN Bullbar Fitting for a 2012-2017 (Pre Facelift) D-Max.

I personally love the look of these bars, the fact they don't stick out far and the fact they are a full bumper replacement.
Keep in mind if you want one though, that there may be a long wait time due to the fact they come from Portugal (I waited 7 months).

But the included instructions and the lack of installation information i could find on the net was pretty frustrating. So i decided to take a heap of photos and hopefully some other people can use this as a better guide.


Fitting Time:
-Wolf 4x4 reckons they have fitting time down to 2.5-3hrs for these bars. I got my bar through those blokes and they were pretty helpful with a heap of little tips for installing.
-They reckon it will take about 6hrs to fit this bar yourself
-I took 8hrs to fit this (including a full degrease and clean of the front end when i took the bumper off and dinner/1 million beers, so 6hrs work is pretty spot on)

Tools
Nothing special
-(1/4)(3/8) Socket Set
-A Set of metric ratchet spanners
-A set of metric ring open ender spanners
-Several Flat Blade/Phillips head screw drivers
-A set of TORX and Metric Allen keys (I cant remember if i used these)
-Wire Stripper, heat shrink and Crimp terminals. You'll need to hard wire in the Indicators and make plugs for the Fog lights.
-(I might have used some other tools, but nothing stands out as a speciality tool)

Heres what you get:
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Removing The bumper and grill
Take the bumper and grill off, its mostly attached with little plastic push clips and the odd screw. Also youll need to remove the white bumper "holders' under the headlights. you'll see this when you take the bumper off. if you dont take these off the AFN bar cant fit.


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Make sure you unplug the fog lights
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Then it will look like this (note the while plastic bits under the headlights, yet to be removed)
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After this the two metal cross bars (running horizontal on the front of the car with the holes in them) have to come off.
At this stage i degreased and washed the front. I re-lanolined the front end after the bar was fitted.


Putting the bar on
While the Bar is still on the ground i highly reccomend you install the 'wings'. They are in a bastard of a spot to get to once the bar is on.
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Loosely install all the brackets (there are millions). As per the instructions. You may think that they haven't given you enough bolts, but because they arent using crush tubes only one bolt per side goes 'through' the chassis rail. all the others feed in the rail and just out one side (this is frustrating and requires beers)

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That will complete the brackets, double/triple check that you haven't forgotten anything because once the bar is on its a pain to reach them.

I used a couple of ratchet straps from the roof to get the bar on and was able to line it up and get the bolts started just by myself. From there it took 5-10mins of adjusting to make sure I had the 15-20mm required gap from the body to bar the whole way around (this takes into account body flex and movement)

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This is the best i could get and still have even on both sides, once the supplied pinch weld is fitted its actually (suprisingly) not that noticeable
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Random Bits
From there all the main stuff is done, But this next part took the bulk of the time trying to do correctly.
For starters the supplied grill support has no hole or mount for this factory sensor. So its a case of find a nice way to cable tie it.
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The additional indicators that come with the bar will need to be hard wired in, I did this before putting the bar on so i had room to cut/splice/solder and waterproof.

Despite what you may here the fog lights that come with the bar WILL NOT just plug into the old wiring. The OEM lights use an Isuzu plug, where as the AFN lights use a H8/H11 Plug. You can buy female plugs with a tail from Autobarn/Repco etc for approx $13each. But keep that in mind. But now its down they work off the factory switch which is good.
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Now that the bar is fitted and wired up the last step is to trim the excess guard plastic insided the wheel arch. I trimed it using a dremel then used a factory hole in the front of the guard to bolt it firmly down so there would be no flapping on the highway.

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Finished Product
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Last edited by Foreveraproject on Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:19 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1402
Foreveraproject
Nice pics for those wanting to see the setup of FWH.
I noticed the face and edge of the lock plates and the inside of the FWH lock section has hardly any grease at all.
Did you ensure there is enough greasein the hub? There may be only a small amount in the hub and bearings, if not enough, the grease will be moved away by centrifugal force when soft and the bearings may not have any recirculating lubrication.
Just a precaution as it looks insufficient to me.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:32 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 9:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: QLD, Australia
mydmax wrote:
Foreveraproject
Nice pics for those wanting to see the setup of FWH.
I noticed the face and edge of the lock plates and the inside of the FWH lock section has hardly any grease at all.
Did you ensure there is enough greasein the hub? There may be only a small amount in the hub and bearings, if not enough, the grease will be moved away by centrifugal force when soft and the bearings may not have any recirculating lubrication.
Just a precaution as it looks insufficient to me.


Yeah out of the box they only had a little bit of grease in them and im assuming just packing grease. I added a another 2 tablespoons of grease after that photo.


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