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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:53 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1513
I opened my hubs when I fitted FWH a long time ago and found there was very little grease in the hub, definitely not enough to lube the bearings on a long hot run.
I repacked the whole hub both L & R sides until the grease level was higher than the bearing cups to ensure continual flow through when grease is hot, ie turns to oil or very thin.

I used to maintain a road sealing gang vehicles and equipment and always packed the trailer hubs of bitumen road tankers, 4 hubs took nearly 4 tubs of grease, ie around 1 kg of grease per hub. they did tens of thousands of KM each year, bearings lasted at least 4 years before you might/maybe replace them for reliability reasons. The other mechanic/road gang used to use 1 tub only to do the whole 4 hubs on his bitumen road tanker. He had to replace the bearings every year as they were brinelled on the cup and cone surfaces and near to failure. Grease is cheap, failure is not.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 7:58 pm
Posts: 247
Location: Brisbane
Keen to hear if the hubs come loose, as apparently is the case. Ute is Looking good


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2018 10:04 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Duck wrote:
Keen to hear if the hubs come loose, as apparently is the case. Ute is Looking good


The hubs coming loose is a result of using the ultra slippery gaskets that are supplied with AVM hubs and is easily fixed by simply not using them and using a loctite or similar sealant sparingly instead which I believe he used here. Problem solved as long as you don't use too much.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 12:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 7:58 pm
Posts: 247
Location: Brisbane
Danno wrote:
Duck wrote:
Keen to hear if the hubs come loose, as apparently is the case. Ute is Looking good


The hubs coming loose is a result of using the ultra slippery gaskets that are supplied with AVM hubs and is easily fixed by simply not using them and using a loctite or similar sealant sparingly instead which I believe he used here. Problem solved as long as you don't use too much.


Well I'm in I haven't gone ahead as didn't want to worry about fixing them if I can on the track.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
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Duck
I have had FWH on for the last 60,000km. Towed in 4wd on rough stuff, no much hill climbing but the hubs never come loose.
As Danny said, dispense with any gasket and don't use silicon sealant either. Both allow the flange faces to move easily.
I got the number wrong for the Loctite for another thread, dunno why, but the tubes I have are all LOCTITE 518. Just checked.
I use it in a number of areas and never had a leak/seep of oil.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 7:58 pm
Posts: 247
Location: Brisbane
Foreveraproject wrote:
Update:

Fitted some free wheeling hubs.

I decided to treat myself and brought some brand spanker AISIN hubs from roadrunner offroad. Instead of going the 2nd hand route.

My reasoning was: to be able to use low-range while in 2wd, ie reversing a trailer, Not having all of my front end driveline spinning on the highway for no apparent reason. Lastly, in the unlikely event that I bust a CV I can srill drive home without having to pull the front end apart and take it out.


Since fitting them ive noticed that the steering 'feels' a tad lighter, but the marginal fuel economy improvement (0.1L/100) is negligible.

Do you remember if you needed all the new shims you purchased? Did you reuse the existing shims?
Thanks in advance. Don’t suppose you have a photo with the hub cutout ?

Tips for Fitting:

1) Use an Anaerobic gasket sealant, this will give a lot more 'contact' and be far more resistant to shear than the paper gasket that comes with the hubs. Either Loctite 518 or Permatex 51813 (They cross reference as the same P/N anyway, but the Permatex being half the price). You'll only need a small amount on each surface (correctly degreased of course) and you'll end up with hubs that are a lot less likely to come loose.

2) Use feeler gauges to make sure the end play in the axle to hub is between 0.1mm-0.2mm. You can buy different thickness shims from Isuzu for $6/$7 each from memory. Each side will have a couple of shims on them from factory so all you'll need to do is some re-arranging to get the correct tolerance. I bought a couple of each and it was more than enough to do both sides.


The Part numbers for the shims are:

914178929 8-94178-929-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=0.2mm
914178930 8-94178-930-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=0.3mm
914178931 8-94178-931-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=0.5mm
914178932 8-94178-932-0 1205 AR DEF 06.323 Thickness=1mm


Image

New shims bought from Isuzu
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Step 1)
Remove Plastic Cover
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Thats the factory full time hub you are removing, note the circlip and factory shims underneath.
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That's the end play you are going to re create once the new hub is installed
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factory circlip and shims removed
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factory hub removed
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Small amount of sealant applied to both surfaces
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Hub installed, shims removed/replaced accordingly to make the 0.1/0.2mm gap
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Finished, Note a small amount of bearing grease added to inside the hub. this doesn't need to be full of grease as it would stop the hubs from working, just a small amount to keep the operation smooth.
Image

Not shown in the pictures is the OE plastic hub caps. I Holesaw'ed a 100mm (approx) hole out of them which makes the wheel look a lot tider when re installed.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 7:58 pm
Posts: 247
Location: Brisbane
Not sure what happened with this reply, but do you remember if you used all the new shims you purchased or reused the old shims ? Do you have a picture with the hubs with hole cut.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1513
That picture of foreveraprojects hub shows a distinct lack of grease in the inner area of the hub near the outer bearing. None at all was/is visible. That would worry me as far as having a decent bearing life. Maybe the lack of grease from new is the reason some are replacing their front wheel bearings at quite low kilometres.
If grease isn't oozing around the adjustment rings then there isn't much circulating through the outer bearing. That can only mean there is insufficient to also distribute through the inner bearing too.

Having a reasonable amount of grease in the lock/unlock spiral mechanism of the FWH, means it won't rattle when going over corrugations.

When I repacked my bearings for the first time I used around twice as much grease, maybe more, than was evident as OE from the factory. If the grease doesn't fill and is slightly above the inner edges of the cups, then grease cannot flow through the bearings when the grease is warm/hot and near liquid. That flow circulation is what keeps bearings lubricated and provides a long life.


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