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 Post subject: Danno's 2014 lsm build
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
Posts: 3198
Location: Darwin... sort of.
I thought I might get this started before I get too far ahead of myself.

I'm building up this one to take us around Oz once again (3rd), this time with a two-year-old in tow (by then 3) and we will be living out of it for weeks at a time in places like the Kimberley coast, Cape York etc. for around a year and we don't take the chicken tracks ever so it's being built with a bit of serious 4wd'ing in mind, we'll see how that goes, I've yet to test her out, probably nothing 1-2 E lockers won't fix.

I'm not going to bother writing down a list of planned modifications, but all up I expect to spend at least 25K, which is frighteningly easy to do these days.

I should point out that I live in the Top End and have to pay horrendous freight charges that influence my choices at times, so I have to use 3 lettered companies more than I'd like to keep costs down, but at times if they have the best product that's where I'll go anyway.

I fit everything myself, no pimply faced, nose, eyebrow, tongue, lip ringed teenage apprentice gets anywhere near my cars! :lol:

I'm not a big fan of white cars but even less so of metallics in the bush and places we go- learnt that lesson already, so white it is.

This is how I brought her home, no detailing, straight out of the holding yard at my request.
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The first addition was an ARB rear step bar, a step bar for me is mainly for sill protection.
Its a solid bit of gear and very well made but badly powdercoated and is around 45kg+all up, and provides a "rated" (for what ever that's worth) tow point at the rear and went on easily but not without some minor but astoundingly stupid fitting issues, and the trailer plug has since been moved to a more appropriate spot from underneath to the back.
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I asked ARB what the 2 eye bolts were good for at the ends of the bar.....basically nothing was the response :roll:
Only the towbar hitch point is to be used for recoveries apparently. A proper D shackle tongue will be fitted when we leave.

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Last edited by Danno on Mon Jun 02, 2014 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:59 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Next up is a Safari snorkel, I prefer the look of the Safari but it's a bit more of a hassle to fit, the main problem being enlarging the inner guard hole which the factory unit doesn't require, not sure about the rest. Another selling point for me is being able to turn the intake around in heavy rain, I don't think you can do that with the other types.

Drilling the 111 mm hole is bit intense and probably what puts most people off fitting these themselves, the problem is the hole is half on the flare and half on the flat section of the panel making it uneven as you drill down, once you figure out the technique it's all good. The instructions call for 16 mm holes for the actual mounting studs but I drilled mine 13 mm which is adequate, the studs are only 8 mm.

By doing this myself I can ensure that all the bare metal surfaces have been properly painted and sealed and allowed to cure overnight before fitting the snorkel.
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This is where it gets a bit tricky, the inner guard hole needs to be enlarged to the pencil mark, they advise using a body saw which I don't have, so I had to do it the long way with a saw and a pair of pliers and it gets pretty ugly but the end result looks same.
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And then the airbox has to be modified and sealed up, this is where the professional fitters get it wrong if anywhere, the sealant used to seal these two pieces together and then to the main airbox has to be fully cured before the pipe from the snorkel is attached to it, the professional fitters do not have time to let the sealant fully cure so the sealant gets damaged during reassembly, this goes for all types of snorkels, and should be checked by yourself.

You have to turn this..
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into this..
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and then seal all of them together to form this..
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which the snorkel is then attached to.
This is the part you need to check has been sealed properly if someone else has fitted it.

And as a little bonus you can hear the turbo whistle up onto boost.

The finish pics will be in the next post.

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Last edited by Danno on Sat Jun 07, 2014 5:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:17 am 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
sucksqueezebangblow wrote:
Looks like you painted behind/above the rear step ? Something I wish I had done before installing mine. One day I might take do it, and just above the rock sliders too.
Watching this thread with interest, it's nice and detailed with good pics - cheers!


It's not painted, it's a plate that comes with the rear step, I'm not sure exactly what its purpose is other than maybe protecting the panel a little bit, I nearly didn't put it on as it's pre-drilled mounting holes are right over a body seam that isn't even flat behind it, ignoring perfectly good existing holes right next to it!, So I redrilled the plate to suit the holes, I wasn't sure about it at first but I like it now.

Cheers.

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Last edited by Danno on Sat Jun 07, 2014 5:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:15 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
The Mcc bull bar turned up next, also well put together but could've done with at least another 2 tabs on the centre bar for spotties or led light bar, to me that's a glaring omission I think.
The lights fitted to the bar are cheap nasty pieces of rubbish that because of their odd shape won't be easy to change to something better quality, both lights had fallen out by the time the bar was on. The indicator and park lights are LED and look good.

Start unscrewing screws and removing clips from behind in the inner guards, under, at the sides and top until this falls off, surprisingly not much holding it on really.
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As you can see it's easier to do the snorkel and the bar together, it saves having to pull the inners out twice.

This is Harry, who keeps an eye on everything I do and keeps my Missus out of the carport, very handy.
Thats a 100mm beam Harry's watching from.
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These are the brackets that are bolted on to either side of each chassis rail, one big, one small each side and together form the mount for the bull bar and winch mount bracket.
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Like this.
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and this,
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to form this
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Some with sharp eyes may notice the chassis mounting plates are slightly different from others on here and about, in that there are 4 mounting hole's instead of 3 for the winch/bar bracket that goes on next, evolution I guess.

This is the bar mount/winch tray that bolts straight up to the brackets, it's very heavy and solid and has the crumple zones built-in, it's nearly as heavy as the bar itself.
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All bolted up and ready to have the winch fitted.......... which hadn't turned up on time.... So I had no choice but to put the bar on and I'll pull it back off later, it's only six bolts and a few electrical connections, so no big deal, You get used to it living in Darwin but it doesn't pee you off any less....
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Inner guards and grill back on and lights all hooked up, which was a pretty straightforward exercise and I managed not to set off the self destruct sequence or trigger the airbags while splicing into the electrical system.
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Pretty happy with the end result overall
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The first time I washed the car with the bull bar on, most of the paint fell off the MCC emblem, I hope the rest of the bars painted better than that.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:45 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Toowoomba
Danno
Love the pictures and write up. :) Makes it easy for others to do it them self. I have the same rig as yours. White LSM. I fitted an ARB canopy, canopy roof bars with internal frame and ARB side steps. Like you fitted it all myself so I know it’s not stuffed up. Seen too many slap on installations carried out my non trade persons who think all these utes are headed to the mines so no one cares if it’s a bit average fit. I have changed out the spring washers and nuts with quality washers and nylon lock nuts and wet assembled ever thing so no rust later.

The ARB rear step was fitted by the D Max dealer and has gone back to ARB because of poor power coating. :? Rust showing along most welds. I had to remove the bar myself to give back to ARB but at least it will go back on better. Lots of anti corrosion spray on the bolts. Should have got the rear bar outside the initial purchase as I would never have accepted it with the rusty welds.

I note you also have the second generation rear bar with the black plate that bolts on the tub, same as I have. The earlier D Max ARB bars didn’t have that. The trouble with the plate, it moves the number plate rear and the plate sits just under the number plate light that is part of the ARB design. I have moved the light as far back as I can on the bracket and opened up the cut out in the checker plate so some light hits the plate.

Still thinking about a front bar. The ARB one is just too far out there :? so might go for the same as yours which is sold under different brands. Sits back a bit more and looks good as well as a strong design, or knock off. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
I like to take photos of everything I do and there's lots more to go too as I'm well ahead of this build thread and like you say it does give people a good idea whether they can do something themselves and save a bit of money, and my favorite part of any car forum is the build up threads, the more pic's the better, you can pick up some very good info in there...

I'm going for the ARB canopy myself with the reinforcing and full aluminium roof rack.

There's only about 1 inch difference between the two bull bars on how far they stick out but it's 1 inch too much and it just looks wrong, and the quality is about the same anyway, and nearly a grand cheaper...

Cheers.

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Last edited by Danno on Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 5:47 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
WATERWATCH INSTALLATION

Next up I decided to install a Water Watch whose only purpose is to detect water in the fuel, it does nothing else except that but does it very well, the idea being you shut the car down when the alarm goes off, hopefully saving yourself a $10,000 repair bill if you're quick enough.
This is the first part of a 2 part approach (3 if you count the OEM filter) to ensuring the fuel is both dry and clean, part 2 will be a filter that can both filter and remove 99% of water, the idea being if can't or your not quick enough to shut it down the filter will hopefully save you and it's also there to remove emulsified water in the fuel which is very hard for anything to detect and can do lots of damage.

This is what turns up in the box, everything you need except for a bracket which you can order also for about $100 which includes all the fuel lines as well but it puts the unit in a ridiculous spot on the drivers side and you are supposed to run the fuel lines across and back to the other side above the engine and turbo, hot fuel anyone? bad news for a CRD motor.
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Now to find somewhere to put it in a very cramped engine bay as far away from the motor as possible. I settled on a spot between the power steering reservoir and the battery, being there gave me the bonus of having a little bit of cold air coming up from behind the headlight when moving to help keep the temp down a bit and also the guard drops down there and allows you to get big smooth turns on the fuel line without it crimping, however getting the fuel line back to the OEM filter is a bit of an ordeal because the D Max uses 12 mm fuel line which means the lines OD is about 19 mm and you have to run two of them back to the filter, the only place to run the line without going near the motor and increasing the line length dramatically is between the fuse box and the inner guard, it just fits and everything including the fuel line has been protected or covered so it can't rub through and damage anything.

This is the spot.
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To get it to fit there between the power steering reservoir bracket and to where the battery clamp bolts onto the inner guard I had to make a bracket that involved a little bit of artwork with a blowtorch and vice... it took a bit of time to get it just the way I wanted it but it worked out well in the end.

This is it.
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This is how and where it fitted.
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All bolted up with fuel lines attached and alarm relay fitted.
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The wiring is then fed through the firewall and over to the drivers side where you have to find a spot for the LED light and a warning beeper that screeches like a scalded banshee... believe me it goes WELL up under the dash because it screeches for five seconds every time you start the car to let you know it's working.
I used one of the blanks next to the mirror adjusters for the LED as it's right in my peripheral vision there, just in case somebody lets a hydrogen bomb off next to the car and I miss hearing the bloody beeper.
As it turns out you can't simply drill a hole straight through those blanks which is why it's off center, I forgot to take a photo but anyone who has pulled one out will know what I'm talking about, just something else to make a simple job complicated.

LED fitted & wired up.
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A bit of a handy hint for anyone looking for somewhere to pick up power for whatever accessory you want to fit around the dash.

This electrical plug is plugged into the back of the blank that I used for the LED, why it's plugged in there I have no idea, they usually just leave unused plugs hanging, the plug itself is used for the switch when you have automatic folding mirrors.... of all the stupid things to fit to a car... anyway as a small compensation for us paupers who have to get out and fold our own mirrors back for whatever reason, the plug has battery power, ignition power, earth and dash lights all there for the taking.... unless of course you want to retrofit man's 6th greatest invention..... automatic folding mirrors. Oh and don't ask..and yes sliced bread is one of them. I might put this separately in the Handy Hints section as well.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
mydmax wrote:
Danno
You have automatic folding mirrors on your vehicle, just hit something and they will fold back automatically. ie garage door pillar/pedestrian/cyclist etc.

Your fuel will know the in's and out's of a few things before it gets to be used.


Yeah, should be able to drink it by the time it gets there.

When it comes to this current crop of CRD's I think it pays to err on the side of paranoia, and I think it's about time it became compulsory for manufacturers to provide this level of filtration from factory, sticking one small filter and a crude water separator is just not good enough anymore unless you own a diesel injection shop of course.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 6:47 am 
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Location: Toowoomba
Danno, great info on the spare folding mirror plug and power supply. Even for those with the folding mirrors, great spot to take power off for add ons. And given its live the fuse must be fitted in the fuse box, now for your ute, the fuse for fuel warning light. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:59 am 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Bob wrote:
Oh for a copy of the workshop manual with the electrical diagrams :evil: .

I would give my wife's right arm for a copy :lol: :lol: :lol:


It would have to be made available soon, the cars been available for 2 years now.

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