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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 4:30 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
D40CRAIG wrote:
Danno, I know you posted the install pics of your snorkel a while ago now, but we are about to do that to our trucks. (3 of them)
Your post is very very helpful but I just need to ask one thing. In one of your pics, you show the parts sealed together and the small drain (water drain ?) is there. Do you have to remove or seal this?
I have had a look and the hole in the bottom of it is quite big and it seems it would suck water straight into the airbox.
Craig.


From memory there's two of them, one in the pipe and one in the air box, I blocked both of mine but it's a personal thing I guess and some would argue against that, the way I looked at it was I was more concerned about water getting in in the first place than how it was going to get out if it did get in, driving in torrential rain with a Safari allows you to turn the head around to minimise water ingress if it concerns you but it's a pretty good well proven design and I had no problems with it in Darwin during the wet season so there is no right or wrong answer the choice is yours.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:06 am 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
TYRE REPAIR KIT

Don't see this discussed on here much so I thought I'd show what I carry for tyre repairs and why.

I see a lot of tyre repair "kits" advertised as the be all and end all of solutions that people swear by for some reason (three letter companies are notorious for this and market them well) that cost a lot of money and consist pretty much only of tyre plugs and maybe a couple of tube patches if your lucky and in a fancy box, anyone running tubes in their rims? :roll:

Plugs will get you out of a lot of situations and you can use a few at a time in a pinch but if your in the middle of nowhere and you've got a 2" stick through the sidewall of your last tyre no amount of plugs will get you going, although someone will always claim they did I know :roll:, having travelled fairly extensively I've experienced first hand the benefits of being able to do a tubeless repair in the bush and never cease to be surprised at the amount of people I run across who have "never even had a flat so why would we carry gear to repair a tyre?", they're the ones you find on the side of the road past the Mitchell Falls in the Kimberleys with desperate looks on their faces because it's 42C they've blown their only spare and not even carrying plugs or a bloody compressor! true story.

I never mind helping people who are at least carrying the equipment even if they're not that good at using it, tubeless radial repair is finicky and tricky but could save your life, so when I went looking for proper tyre repair items to replace my old I searched high and low and could only find bloody plugs! in the end I had to go straight to Rema Tip Top and buy it direct at some cost, luckily I found a good rep who lived just up the road from me, very handy when it came to cost ;) So the point is is if your going on a big trek around Oz or across the Simpson at least carry the gear, nearly always someone will come along who can use it, I'm not saying you need a kit this extensive for weekend trips but big trips into remote areas I would no matter how lucky you've been up 'till now.

So this is what I carry, you can see the bead breaker and levers, air grinder for cleaning the patch area (rasp will do this), the spray can with "liquid buffer" on it is a degreaser and is VERY important, an inner re-sealer paint and various radial patches, soap, powder for a tube if required, plugs, extra glue etc., and in the second pic it's all packed into a box and the third into the jack area of the DMax, so it doesn't take up much room, the all up cost for the items minus the bead breaker and levers is around $275 which is very exxy but will last 5yrs and the patches 10 if looked after.
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Popping the back bead on this one to remove the tyre alltogether
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Here's a good read on tyre repair http://www.beadelltours.com.au/rim_debate.html

and Rema's link http://www.rema-tiptop.com.au/products/ ... e-products

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 4:07 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
meggs wrote:
As soon as you break the bead it is then tube fit only as you needs a lot of air to seal the bead. I have been led to believe fitting a tube to a tubeless tyre is a temporary repair only because of the ribs on the inside of the tyre.


You don't need a lot of air to seal a bead at all, most compressors will do it easy, especially if you've only just taken the tyre off, if it's a tyre that hasn't been on a rim for a while (or at all) it's a bit trickier but can still be done, a small air tank will help supply a blast of air, one of the tricks is to remove the valve to allow air to enter quicker to seal the tyre behind the bead and then inflate.

LST wrote:
I dont see the Bundy & Coke thats in the first pic in the 2nd or 3rd pic. Is this a test?
What did I win? lol


LOL I wondered how long it would take, that's for when you're finished or before you start depending on the circumstance.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 2:41 pm 
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Location: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Awesome work Danno, a lot of very useful info.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 3:50 pm 
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Posts: 3198
Location: Darwin... sort of.
Carpet Underlay

So the inside of the car got flooded once again... and no not doing anything exciting like a river crossing! a manufacturing fault on a body seal about 4-5" below the rear screen split and that's the path water follows when flowing off the roof, see where this is going? more on that in another post, it took me ages to find it but I estimate 20 odd litres had already entered the car completely soaking the cotton jute underlay once again :roll:,.... first time my son left the tap open on the 40L floor tank while I was filling it...never a dull bloody moment 'round here :roll: So to dry it out all the seats and all the gear etc have to come out so the vinyl can be lifted and that jute holds about 50 times it's own weight in water and it'll never dry in place so you have to rip it all out and it's glued to the vinyl too, then let it drip dry for a day or so and you can't even really squeeze it either it'll just fall apart which is a real pita so the decision was made to replace it with something water proof that would block a bit of sound and heat like the original jute does (barely), Dynamat was considered but a bit of research concluded that all it's good for is taking resonance out of panels by adding weight and doesn't really "block" sound at all and people always use 75% more than is required apparently and it costs a fortune and weighs a ton! Some reading here on that https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ and page 2 here https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/h ... s%E2%84%A2 note how much Dynamat like product is used.

So I took a chance and bought some Closed Cell Foam from Clarke rubber (Closed Cell is more or less water proof) and tore the old wet and now smelly underlay out and threw it aside
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I also cut the firewall jute soundproofing back up the firewall a few inches so it couldn't wick any water up there if only the floor got wet.
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I left the jute over the trans tunnel but same as the firewall I trimmed (ripped) it back up a bit and then cut all the pieces out of the foam sheet and fitted them reasonably tightly.
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The end result after a test drive?, well I knew I was taking a chance for more noise and possibly heat but both myself and the missus agreed that it was at least 20% quieter! so we're pretty happy about that and now if it gets wet while we're travelling it's no big deal and only requires the side of the vinyl to be lifted to dry out quickly.

So would I do it if there was very little chance of getting wet in a crossing or a bloody 4yr old leaving a tap open?.. probably not and if I was going to I'd just wait for the first time it happened and change it then but it's a good option to consider if you couldn't be bothered with Dynamat or the like (btw there is a much cheaper and just as effective product sitting on the shelves at Bunnings for those interested), if however your setting your car up for long term travel like ours I'd definitely do it to save hassle when on the road....like us :roll:

Total cost?.....25 bucks!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 10:13 am 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
FRONT & REAR WHEEL BEARINGS

At my 30K service (20K on the clock) I asked them to leave my wheel bearings alone due to the fact that I have FWH's fitted and didn't want to have to pull them back apart afterwards to make sure everything was sealed and torqued properly and I just generally didn't trust them to do any of it correctly anyway, as it turned out I'm glad I did...read on....
Due to a "4wd incident" involving a bit of muddy H2O :roll: I was forced to check my wheel bearings sooner than anticipated as a precaution and also being mindful of other reports of insufficient lubrication, as most of the regulars would know I've pulled most things off and apart on this car and been pretty disappointed with some of the things I've found....well no exceptions here either :roll: .....

So after pulling everything off involving the FWH your left with this:
Image

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the outer ring with the three screws (screws removed here but circled blue where they go) is the locking ring under which there is a "nut" with two large holes which is used to tension the bearings (there is a tool for this but it isn't really necessary), once you get the tension or torque exactly where you like it using the "nut" you install the locking ring which is splined to the stub axle (circled red) and line the screws up and lock it in place....simple ;) ....except they NEVER line up where you want them to so you have to fiddle around turning the plate this way and that and compromising the all important torque setting until you settle with something your never entirely happy with....easier when it's someone else's car though ;) , these things are made to test us :roll: but it is much better than the old two 52mm nuts and tabbed washer between though I must admit.

So this is what came out of my passenger side, it's hard to see some of the detail in the pics but suffice to say the inner and outer were way under lubricated and the bearings were discoloured brown from excessive heat (the flash on the camera is hiding the colour), the discolouration was as much from lack of lube as the bearings being a bit over tensioned I believe, remember your friendly Isuzu serviceman is not going to care about the fact that the bearings have been clearly overheated (if he looks at all) he's just going to put a bit of grease on and throw them back together...
The other side in contrast DID have enough grease but the bearings were still discoloured from getting warm and were in my mind over tensioned also.
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Also both sides had this damage on the inner bearing cups, this is completely unacceptable and either the bearings were used to ram the cups home into the hubs or they were massively overtightened to seat everything during assembly, either way they are damaged and not worth using again, seeing how most people don't do their own bearings I wonder how widespread this is?? I'm waiting on a reply from Isuzu on this.
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So rather than risking these bearings I opted to replace them with a new set both sides, I got them from CBC at $70 per side, Koyo bearings the same as OEM, if you go to Isuzu you will be charged $140 per side for the privilege but you will need to go to Isuzu to get the correct inner seal, the seal that comes with all of the kits will not have the correct seal, they are only 8 bucks each, the seal you require has the bigger lip as in the pic, none of the kits come with this seal. Btw this is the seal lip that is referred to when you get a strange squeal on the front and it needs to be lubricated, this happened a lot to the earlier models.
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Stub axle completely stripped and cleaned
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New bearings and cups fitted and greased awaiting the inner hub seal.
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After fitting everything back up setting the tension on the wheel bearings can be a bit of an art form, suffice to say that the required tension is not a hell of a lot more that finger tight and can be a bit fiddly to do, I prefer to set them very slightly tight to begin with to save having to pull them back down and re-tension soon after a drive (yep, I'm lazy), it works and each to his own.

Rear wheel bearings
The rear bearings cannot be removed from the axles without a press but can be checked easily enough, if as in my case because of water ingress you have to re grease the bearings it's easy enough to do without disassembling everything.
Removing the axle is simple enough..remove the wheel, remove the brake drum, clamp the brake line disconnect it at the wheel cylinder and disconnect the handbrake line and undo the 4 large nuts at the back of the flange, you do not have to hold the bolts on the other side of these nuts because they are pressed into the brake backing plate and therefore the brake shoes can stay in place...and then pull! the axle should come out but you might have to use something to pry the flange apart if the sealant is too strong, then if necessary wash the old grease out with degreasers and the like and blow out with compressed air, then get a syringe with one of those pointy dental fittings if possible and simply inject the grease back into the bearing...easy, re fitting is done in reverse and bleed the brake on that side only and your done, the handbrake cable can be a drama to re fit but is do-able with a bit of thought.
There is a bit more detail on doing this in the elocker section further back in the thread.
Image

The gear you can see at the base of the axle is for the ABS pickup.

For the record I did add more grease when I fitted the elocker but they weren't too bad though.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 4:32 pm 
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Location: Darwin, NT
awesome write-up Danno, thanks for taking the time mate. Have recently started to experience that high pitched squeal to which you refer - front right by the sound of it!

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
LST wrote:
So you didn't do the front wheel bearings when you installed the FWH. As in adjust them I mean?


No mate, the car only had about 3-4K on it when I installed them so I decided to let them go, in theory they should have been all right and I knew I'd be the one doing them at 30K :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 10:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:50 pm
Posts: 457
Location: Nanango Qld
Danno wrote:
AVM FREEWHEEL HUBS


Image

And that's it..


Dan when you fit the switch part do you have it in 4x4 or 4x2? Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:35 pm 
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Leave it in 4x2 Bruce.

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