NEW D-MAX /MUX /COLORADO FORUM

NEW D-MAX /MUX /COLORADO FORUM
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2019 12:01 pm
Posts: 3
Hi There,
I'm a newbie to this forum and owner of a 2015 LS-U DMAX.
If the car is idle with key removed, my battery will drain slowly (over a 48 hour) period to a point where I cannot crank the engine (down to about 10.0 volts).
I've had the battery tested (twice) and have been assured the battery is good.

I stuck a multi-meter between the +ve battery lead and battery +ve terminal and measured a draw of about 0.09 amps with engine switched off and key out of ignition. So I started pulling fuses to identify the culprits.

When I pulled the very last fuse labelled METER (+B) the current draw dropped to 0.01 amps.
Any one have an idea what this fuse is used for (I suspect the dash displays) and if a constant draw of 0.08 amps is normal on this circuit when the car is idle and key removed ?

Also the circuit labelled BCM was drawing 0.01 amps

thanks for any help.
cheers
Rob


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1573
The draw you are measuring is around 0.1 amp, which means 2.4 ah each day. Over two days that is 4.8 ah lost from the battery. I would suspect that is pretty normal and definitely not flattening the battery in 48 hrs.
You say idle and key out, but have you locked it and read the current draw when it is locked and as it would be when secure and you are not there?
Checking further might reveal what is the culprit.
Have you checked for any current flow from battery terminal lead at alternator and the alt charge terminal. Either a faulty regulator OR a blown diode which allows current to leak into the alternator stator winding will do what you are experiencing.

Hope you find it.
Cheers
Mydmax


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 1975
Location: Darling Downs. Qld
Is it the original battery?

Tink


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2019 12:01 pm
Posts: 3
Thanks Mydmax for the suggestions. The battery did flatten, car locked or unlocked.
Current draw by the alternator is an interesting one - I did see some draw on this lead (0.03 amp) - but it tailed off over time.
Yep Tink, it's the original battery. I was assured it was good (by a battery sales company).

I'm off to the auto-electrician with this one as it's becoming a bit frustrating to pin it down.
I'll let you know the prognosis.
cheers


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 4:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1573
I think what tink is alluding to is, the battery will have less Storage capacity although tests ok by a sales place. It also can have lead deposit’s below the plates and that can cause some unusual discharge which is not detected/detectable.
You may be able to charge it when flat and observe the amount of gassing from each cell. Higher gassing may indicate a damaged cell.
If one cell is being affected you can use a hydrometer on the cells to determine which one is less specific gravity than the others. Hard to do on a sealed battery though.
Either way if something isn’t right then a new battery may be the fix.

Edited out the stupid Ipad inclusions. Now as intended.


Last edited by mydmax on Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:43 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 8:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 1975
Location: Darling Downs. Qld
If it is the original battery, it will not be VRLA which is sealed, it will be just a wet cell and will not be “sealed”. May look “sealed” but there will be a cover (over the filling caps) which can be popped off with a srewdriver. Have a look at the electrolyte level in each cell and top up if necessary, then put the battery onto a quality, multi-stage battery charger at least overnight.

Oh, and most wet cell batteries have a 12 month warranty, some 2 years, not many have longer.

Tink


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 1:22 am
Posts: 629
Location: adelaide hills
gibbo9999 wrote:
I'm a newbie to this forum and owner of a 2015 LS-U DMAX.

Mine had 5 year warranty.
Can you do, on this page, User Control Panel, Profile, Location.

_________________
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 1975
Location: Darling Downs. Qld
garrytre wrote:
gibbo9999 wrote:
I'm a newbie to this forum and owner of a 2015 LS-U DMAX.

Mine had 5 year warranty.
Can you do, on this page, User Control Panel, Profile, Location.


A five year battery warranty? Or vehicle warranty?

Tink


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 1:22 am
Posts: 629
Location: adelaide hills
Tink wrote:
garrytre wrote:
gibbo9999 wrote:
I'm a newbie to this forum and owner of a 2015 LS-U DMAX.

Mine had 5 year warranty.
Can you do, on this page, User Control Panel, Profile, Location.


A five year battery warranty? Or vehicle warranty?

Tink


OP said "I stuck a multi-meter between the +ve battery lead and battery +ve terminal and measured a draw of about 0.09 amps with engine switched off and key out of ignition."
That says there's some sort of current going through the car. Battery may or may not be crook, but I'm sure my clock doesn't draw 0.09A. Where else is current going?
I spose if anybody gets a chance, it would be good to do the same to see what a normal DMAx uses when the key is out of the ignition.

_________________
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2019 12:01 pm
Posts: 3
Turns out it was the battery . The problem worsened and it would not hold a charge for more than about 5hrs. Once the battery volts fell below about 12.2V the engine would hardly crank over. I 've now installed a new battery (650CCA) and all is well. I'm still not sure why the "Battery Factory" originally diagnosed the battery as good - maybe they just didn't want the sale.
thanks for the feedback.


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