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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 9:55 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2016 4:43 pm
Posts: 3
G'day all - just been doing a few maint things to my 2010 build Dmax and thought I would provide bit of feedback. I have had this vehicle since new and its been well maintained and in no way heavily worked or abused. Currently done 73K and after being totally pissed off with the pathetic dealer support (don't get me started again) - and standard of 'servicing', I have done what needs to be done and kept a pretty detailed log. So, after having been informed that valve adjustments are generally never done at 40K, I thought I had better take a look. For the record the valves were generally around .18 - couple bit closer to spec but mostly over. Job very straight forward - only really fiddly part for me was clips on leak-off harness - never having dealt with a diesel (lots of other stuff though), I wasn't really sure how it came off - ya sorta have to do it. So, all that was ok but then I got the old light and took a peek down into the throttle body and there it was - a great big chunk of black shit that looks like volcanic lava - baked in there and making a joke of the once clean inlet airways. I had suspected that I would see a bit of crap in there so had a Mann-Hummel 200 ready to fit (done). I just didn't think I would find such a buildup. I cant understand that all those engine manufacturers who knew very well that this would be the result of incorporating this EGR system of emission insanity didn't bother to incorporate a standard catch-can system (like the 200) - its almost like all these diesels have been engineered to fail (after warranty :( ) - can't believe they are STILL doing it and getting away with it.

So now I have to decide what to do with the EGR and EGR cooler and all that diabolical design and wasted engineering. But first I have to pencil yet another job on the list and completely remove the inlet manifold and strip it out. I need the tool to remove the injector pipes but if there is anyone out there who has done the job, is there anything that I need to be aware of apart from keeping immaculate cleanliness around injectors and pipes and keeping in sealed plastic and in order etc. If anyone has any info that could be handy I would appreciate - thanks.

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:03 am 

Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2014 2:27 pm
Posts: 382
Location: Brisbane
Hi rickyrocket.

Well done on the self servicing. Wish I was as brave as you. Those clips you speak of break when you look at touching them.

The provent/egr thing is well documented in these forums, so I will keep my reply short, on my experiences...

I have had a provent 200 installed since before 20k, I am up to 55k now. Catches about 10-15ml per 1000km.
Further to this I remapped my ecu a while back to exclude any use of the egr valve system and then to top this off installed a full blank plate before the egr cooler, so no exhaust enters this now unused cooling chamber.

I have not had the opportunity to peak inside my motor, I expect it to be clean, as my efforts are for longevity of my ute ... all this after some research into the debacle of egr systems in small modern diesels. So I agree with you for sure.

FYI. Side note . I used to do a mid-service self oil and filter change every 5000km, but since I haulted the egr system altogether the engine oil stays very clean (looking pretty fresh) even after 6-7000km, so I will revert back to 10k oil changes now too.

2013 LSU crew,auto,4x4,white,towb,tint,tubliner+Outback Armour lift,Ironman Bullbar,Alpha Canopy,PhatBars,Snorkel,Superwinch hubs,WhispbarHD racks,Provent 200, ecuwest tune,UHF,7"HIDs, Wheels 17x8 PDW w/Toyo OPAT2 275-65r17

PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 4:54 am 

Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2016 10:58 pm
Posts: 2
Would there be any chance, please of an installation diagram or pics
I would be very grateful

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