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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 1:30 am 
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Joined: Thu May 16, 2019 1:00 am
Posts: 19
Location: Chile, South America
So, after changing every filters and engine oil, it's moment to change gearbox oil, diff oils, and transfer case oil.

Model: D-max Twinturbo 2.5, Euro 5, 4x4, manual transmission, year 2015, built in Thailand.

It has 98.000kms, serviced everywhere but not in the dealership (bought it used a month ago). I don't have any record about services, and I'm changing oils by my own.

So, searching on-line and owners book, I found some alternative oils that actually could work under the stated requierements.

- Transfercase: Hyundai XTeer 5W30 (the same one I used on the engine) http://www.xteer.co.kr/eng/sub2_6?prod_id=PRODUCT44
- Rear diff: Mobil Mobilube HD 80W90
- Front diff: I would like to know if there is possible to use the same one as the rear diff, if not, I'm considering buying a 75W90 with: API GL5 / MIL-L-2105D / BMW / VW TL52145-Y / G052 145 A2 http://www.distribuidorfuchs.cl/product ... ae-75w-90/
- Gearbox: 75W90 with: API GL5 / MIL-L-2105D / BMW / VW TL52145-Y / G052 145 A2 http://www.distribuidorfuchs.cl/product ... ae-75w-90/

I would be greatful if someone can actually help me choosing the right oils before replacing them by my own. We don't have the suggested oils stated in the owners manual (at least in Chile).

Thanks everyone!

Pazzesco


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 7:01 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1513
G'day Pazzesco
I would think the same oil can be used in the front and rear diff. They do the same job.
The transfer case and gearbox I thought would be the same oil, In Oz the grade is 30W. Haven't heard of anyone using 80w in the gearbox. In both, I add a small amount of Nulon G70 which is a diff oil with PTFE particles in it, TEFLON. That makes the gearbox and the transfer case operate smoother. You probably have a similar product.
Don't forget the small front axle SOTF, shift on the fly, changer, it requires around 80-90 diff oil and takes approx 120ml. a drop or two of PTFE in that also allows it to move easier. When drained a syringe is good to use for the refill.


If your climate is hot most of the time I would favour an engine oil which is a slightly higher viscosity on the hot side, ie, 5 w 40 or even 10w 40. The oil is 5 weight/viscosity when cold but is no thinner than a straight 40 would be when hot. ie multigrade. A 30 viscosiy if used in hot climates and the oil actually gets/runs hotter, the 5 w 30 is thinner at that temp than the 5w40 would become. This become more important if the engine is working hard under load. The handbook has graduated viscosity ratings for different ambient temps. It is all pretty thin when hot so difficult to judge by eye when draining hot oil.

These are just my opinions, others may have varied things they do.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:08 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 1:22 am
Posts: 612
Location: adelaide hills
mydmax wrote:
The transfer case and gearbox I thought would be the same oil
I remember having to use engine oil somewhere in the drive-train. Can't remember where, but Pazzesco could be right.
But I always wonder, if there's a different engine, what else has changed? So our experience might not be valid for him. Need to look at the manual, but if it's the same in Chile as Australia, the manual can be wrong.

_________________
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1513
Garry
I have normal engine oil in the Transfer, Gearbox, so same there and engine oil of good quality synthetic in the engine.

A straight 30w as mentioned in my book creates some gearbox tooth chatter It reduces gear teeth chatter at low engine speeds in 1st. There isn't much difference in viscosity with 15 w40, however, if it is a multigrade engine oil then as it gets hotter it isn't as thin as straight 30W would be at the same temp. I don't do racing gearchanges when cold so any lag/baulking of synchros doesn't happen.

The thing I notice with using a small amount of Nulon G70 in diffs and transmission sections is when draining there is far less metallic fuzz on the drain magnet. To me, that means it isn't wearing it off the vitals inside.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 12:33 am 
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Joined: Thu May 16, 2019 1:00 am
Posts: 19
Location: Chile, South America
Good day Mydmax,
Thanks for all the info. you gave me so far! ;)

As for the engine oil, you are right, next time I'll use a 5w40 or even 10w40 as you suggested, now here is winter, we're having -2°c during the mornings so I'm calm for now, but for summer with 35°c driving at 120km/hr on the highway... I'll definetively change it :lol:

So, searching for the oils, I have some questions:

- Gearbox and transfer case:I know I have to buy 3 liters for both parts, I'm searching for a 30W grade oil for my transfer case and gearbox, do you have a suggestion on how to find it? Is it rare? Because I'm searching for "30W grade oil" here in Chile and I found out there is a "conventional oil" - is it right? :?: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-30W- ... T/17253555 or maybe I'm just looking for the wrong oil? A regular synthetic 5w30 for engine will do? (like the one I used in my engine).
- Both differentials: 3 liters of Mobil Mobilube HD Plus 80W90 https://www.superiorengineering.com.au/ ... -1lt-24969
- Nulon G70: I found a local equivalent of the additive you're using, is called "Prolong" with PTFE particles on it, for gears. It contains 236 ml (I suppose is it enough for all the gears?)
- "small front axle SOTF, shift on the fly, changer": here, I'm a bit confused... I thought this was the front diff. I'm searching for a "shift on the fly" oil, but I can't find it, what can I use instead of this one?

Thanks once again! You're helping me a lot! :)
Regards

Pazzesco


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 7:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1513
G'day Pazzesco

A straight 30w oil is not a multigrade, ie, it gets thinner and thinner as it heats up. If using it for TC and gearbox,(my opinion only here) and it is hot ambient then the engine oil which is multigrade and begins at say 10w or 15w performs the same BUT when hot the oil, the 40w part of the oils characteristics, then isn't as thin as straight mono grade 30w would be at the same temp. This to me is an advantage. If adding Prolong to gearbox don't only add afew ml's/cc's as you still want the synchro rings in the box to be able to speed match the rotating parts when changing gears.

I presume your 4wd selection is via button push and dash indication.
The SOTF changer has a wiring loom going to it on the front axle, yours is on the RHS of the diff centre, from memory. This unit when used, connectes the diff output shaft to the axle and RH wheel after the transfer case has brought the front drive shaft and diff pinion up to the asme speed as the rear diff is roatating. Then the SOTF system can slide across to lock into 4wd.
During normal running, no 4wd selected, the front diff pinion and crown wheel is stationary and the LH side shaftwheel and shaft to diff centre is turning the SOTF exit stub axle the OPPOSITE way to the front wheels, ie differential action. This is altered by the tC bringing the whole system up to the same speed and rotation direction so SOTF can work to achieve 4wd. The easier that SOTF system and it's drive motor can operate means all works as designed without timeout in the change controller. Diff oil with a dash of Prolong will provide good lube and action, after all it is only 120 to 130 ml of oil in there.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2019 3:14 am 
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Joined: Thu May 16, 2019 1:00 am
Posts: 19
Location: Chile, South America
Thanks mydmax!

I haven't found a straight mono 30W in Chile, except for a generic repackaged one with ACEA E2, API CF/SF - is mineral oil https://lubricantesenlinea.cl/presta7/lubricantes/1266-aceite-reenvasado-monogrado-sae-30-1-litro.html
I'ts dirty cheap (4 USD per liter), and stated for "regular diesel and petrol engine". I think I'll go for it (for both the gearbox and the transfer case, with Nulon aditive). Even though, the salesman on the shop suggests me using a more expensive 5w30 synthetic for both gearbox and transfercase, because this is what the so called expert department, told him.

As for the small front axle SOTF and both diffs, I'll use Mobil Mobilube HD 80w90. And my truck uses a a knob, not buttons.
6 speed manual, with a knob selector
Attachment:
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- Rear diff
Attachment:
UisS6AA - Imgur.jpg
UisS6AA - Imgur.jpg [ 49.03 KiB | Viewed 28 times ]

- Gearbox and DPF filter housing
Attachment:
C4ntbQC - Imgur.jpg
C4ntbQC - Imgur.jpg [ 41.66 KiB | Viewed 28 times ]


Last edited by Pazzesco on Wed Jun 19, 2019 5:49 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2019 3:22 am 
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Joined: Thu May 16, 2019 1:00 am
Posts: 19
Location: Chile, South America
- Transfer Case
Attachment:
hXeKwIF - Imgur.jpg
hXeKwIF - Imgur.jpg [ 40.98 KiB | Viewed 28 times ]


- Front Diff: I can't see it, I suppose I need to remove the bottom defense so I can see it.
- SOTF: Same, I can't see it for now.

I'm changing oils this week, I still want to change them by my own, so a bit of guide will be handy! I'm watching videos on youtube of different truck models for changing oils. No big deal, it seems to be easy!


Pazzesco


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2019 6:49 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1513
Pazzesco
A 5W30 synthetic oil means the gearbox is being lubricated with a 5w grade oil, not a 30 grade oil. Even though when hot the 30w viscosity will be less. In a gearbox which doesn't get to engine temp it would be somewhere between. Having the base 5w will mean a lot of gear chatter when going slow.

Just to see what effect, I tried some thinner, supposedly better synthetic in my gearbox and it made lots of chatter noise when going slow. Loud rattles. Replaced the oil with engine oil.


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