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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
Posts: 3231
Location: Darwin... sort of.
Hi all, Ive used Dopomax's rear diff breather out of his build thread and will include the fronts when I sort something out with one of the 3 breathers there, that way the entire Dmax breather system will be in one thread.

Well, the good news is I've figured out how to extend the g-box & transfer breathers correctly and completed mine, the bad news for some is that it's not straightforward unfortunately and will require some drilling and tapping and a bit of spanner work.

Although not straightforward neither is it difficult, but will take the best part of a day at least for those not accustomed to doing these things as it involves among other things pulling the centre console out along with the gearstick and the gearstick extension housing and everything in between.

So I've written this walkthrough for those who might be a bit "spannerly" challenged but definitely want the breathers done.
If I haven't made something clear enough just ask and I'll put more info up.

So it turns out the transfer and separate 4wd actuator (the small tube you can see running from the very back of the gearbox/transfer) are both plumbed to vent into the cavity between where the transfer case and gearbox are bolted together, there is a small drain hole at the bottom much like the one at the bottom of the bell housing to allow any water to escape, unlikely it would get up there however so it's not an all bad idea, but we like them higher than that.

The gearbox breather turned out to be in the gearstick extension housing, it took a long time and some fancy acrobatics to find that one by pressurising the gearbox until I figured out where the air was coming out. Thought I might be up for a Darwin award there at one point.

To do this job you will at least need a set of G 1/8 BSPF taps & tap wrench and a 1/8 brass hose fitting for 6mm or 1/4 vacuum tube. Repco or SCA or whoever will have these fittings, Bunnings may have the taps, if not Blackwoods or similar or even a bolt supply place will have them.

- at least 4m of 6mm or 1/4 (ID) of vacuum tube, -Repco or the like again.

-2.5 m of 3/16 or 4-4.5 tube.

-8.7mm drill for the taps.

First thing is to pull the console out, remove the gear knob and the following screws-
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Then pull this out from in front of the handbrake so you can lift it up and forward from the back and then pull it backwards, don't forget to unplug the ciggy lighter.
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Remove the rubber boot surround and pull it up and off the stick, it will turn inside out and probably come away from the metal surround.
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Undo the 4 bolts around the stick...don't panic, springs, washers, gears and ball bearings are not going to fly everywhere...
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And remove the stick and then the 4 bolts holding the extension housing on..
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To get the housing off you may have to tap it gently sideways a bit to loosen it off it's locating dowels
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This is what you'll be left with.
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Put all that aside for now as we now have easy access to the transfer and actuator breathers looking down through the hole.
-This is what you will see, only the "u" shaped tube that runs between the two large fittings I've already removed, the black line represents this, remove the tube and discard.
-The smaller tube 4mm or 3/16 (green) is the actuator breather, remove it also and block the hole, I just cut a piece of tube and filled one end with silastic and put it back on.
-The one circled red is the transfer breather, leave it open.
-The one circled blue needs to be blocked same as above.
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Now pull the 3/16 line off the back of the transfer and discard, replace it with the 2.5m you bought, run it along the top of the box using cable ties to existing clips towards the front of the car until you reach the firewall and just leave it there for now.
-Attach the 6mm line to the fitting circled red above and do the same.
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That takes care of the transfer & actuator breathers.


Now for the Gearbox itself.
If you grab the extension housing, at the rear of it you will see a small 2-3mm hole at the bottom, this is the breather hole, you can follow the path that's been left for it.
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The area above the existing breather hole is the thickest part available to us to drill and tap solidly, so grab a 4-5mm drill and drill a pilot hole about halfway up,followed by the 8.7.
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Then turn it over and using the 4-5mm drill drill a hole through here into the cavity above where we've just put the hole for the brass fitting bypassing the tiny breather slot up beside the gearstick bush altogether.
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Now place it in a vice and tap the 8.4mm hole with the 1/8 tap, use the one with the most taper on it and use wd40 or lanolin as a lubricant when doing this and make sure to keep the tap straight as you go down, being a large tap with a very fine thread can make this difficult so take your time.
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Remember to block the little hole off as well.
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Screw the brass fitting in, do not overtighten, use thread sealer if you want.
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Re-fit the housing back onto the gearbox using a very thin smear of silastic or your sealer of choice and attach the second 2m length of tube.
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Thats it, re-install everything in reverse order until it looks like before you started inside.

Now run the 3 lines together up the firewall under the brake booster using cable ties where you can but avoid using or touching the brake lines obviously.
Once out at the top you will need to run them to some kind of filter arrangement, this is how I did mine..the breathers from the front diff also run to this block.

Edit: it's ok to tee the transfer and gearbox lines together at or near the gearbox and run a single line to the front, this will also free up a connection on your breather block.
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Anything I've missed or more detail you require just ask.


Rear Diff Breather by Dopomax

And now to the rear diff breather. The factory one is just too low. It’s fitted on the cross member just under the tub floor. I removed the existing tubing and kept the breather bit and fitted a longer hose which picked up the existing mounts on the cross member. Then the tube runs towards the fuel tank then down the chassis rail following the wiring loom and up in the left hand side tail light area. The picture is with the rear LHS tail light removed. There was an existing hole in the tub inners for a p clamp to hold the hose. So the breather is now at the same height as the top of the tub rail, if I have water up here, I will have other things to worry about, remember the breather valve you removed from the diff works on a different principle that 's not required on the end of an extended breather and will actually defeat the purpose altogether.
Perfect and a very easy and cheap modification. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 7:45 am 
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Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 8:05 am
Posts: 283
Brilliant

Really dumb question does the auto box have the same breathers ?????

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 8:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:16 am
Posts: 329
Location: Darwin, NT
Happy days Danno, thanks mate. Have a billet race craft kit to go in mine, haven't heard much about them but dad bought the kit for me so the price was right!

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My build thread - viewtopic.php?f=16&t=712


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Login problem posts moved here viewtopic.php?f=7&t=390 to keep this one on topic.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2014 2:27 pm
Posts: 382
Location: Brisbane
Chester ver 2.0 wrote:
Brilliant

Really dumb question does the auto box have the same breathers ?????


That's not a dumb question. I would like to know that too...

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1581
An auto and or transfer must have a breather to stop pressurization and seal failure.
It will be there somewhere, possibly hidden and may not be apparent to most people.
Some tubes with hose on them are a good indicator though.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Chester ver 2.0 wrote:
Brilliant

Really dumb question does the auto box have the same breathers ?????


Actually it's a really good question and one I didn't consider in all honesty, I would bet the transfer case and 4WD actuator would be exactly the same but the gearbox is another thing, as MD said it has to be there somewhere and my bet is that it will be in a similar place somewhere around the shifter, if you jump under the car you can easily reach the transfer case breathers and knowing where they are from the pictures have a fondle around towards the front of the car and see if you can locate any valves similar to the ones on the diff or tubes similar to those on the transfer, if you're really keen to have your breathers done just pull the console out which is very simple and the boot around the shifter held on by four bolts, and have a look it will be there somewhere.

If you get up there and have a feel around let me know how you get on, it would be good to have automatic and manual in the same thread.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 1975
Location: Darling Downs. Qld
Had a brief look yesterday and was going to have a better look on the weekend. From what I could feel, couldn't see anything, the transfer case breather goes forward and into a 90 degree metal tube into the gearbox. Just in front of this, it felt like another 90 deg tube coming out of the gearbox with a rubber hose going forward. This hose then becomes metal. About the size of a brake line. Couldn't follow it all the way to the engine bay but it went close. Will look again on Sunday and try to get some photos. Or maybe, I have no real idea :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Tink wrote:
Had a brief look yesterday and was going to have a better look on the weekend. From what I could feel, couldn't see anything, the transfer case breather goes forward and into a 90 degree metal tube into the gearbox. Just in front of this, it felt like another 90 deg tube coming out of the gearbox with a rubber hose going forward. This hose then becomes metal. About the size of a brake line. Couldn't follow it all the way to the engine bay but it went close. Will look again on Sunday and try to get some photos. Or maybe, I have no real idea :D


C'mon Tink, pull the console out...

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:06 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Myst wrote:
Happy days Danno, thanks mate. Have a billet race craft kit to go in mine, haven't heard much about them but dad bought the kit for me so the price was right!


Bloody nice looking kits those, but you won't be able to use the pneumatic fittings that it comes with on the gbox & transfer, you'll have to change them for the barbed fittings like I fitted to the gbox., the diffs will be ok because they have 1/8 bspf fittings which screw out.

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