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 Post subject: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:22 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Sydney
Hi, Guys I am looking for some information about the use of aluminium Radiators. I have been told that they do not last very long due to stress fractures.
But I have checked that out and it seems to be a 50/50 argument.
People say that they use them in race & rally cars with out any problems. The reason I want an aluminium radiator is for towing purposes, as I think the standard one won't cut it long-term.
I have spoken to PWR and they say that their radiator is much thicker, and will handle the heat generated by towing. Without the need for a transmission cooler.
Many Thanks for any replies.


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 1942
Location: Darling Downs. Qld
In the bottom of the OEM radiator is a transmission cooler.

Tink


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1402
Just_Misplaced
Speaking to a company who sells radiators isn't going to achieve an unbiased opinion because they want sell them.

The OE radiator has a heat exchanger, ie cooler in there, as tink has mentioned.
What is wrong with the original one???? They do the job very long term if proper coolant is maintained in the system.

Rally cars and race cars do not need to have long life radiators in them because everything is altered, replaced, etc at frequent intervals for reliability, so that is a poor example of a life time use.

Just because a radiator is thicker DOES NOT mean it cools better. Each row of fins rearward of the front ones are being heated by the one in front, and so after a number of cooling tube rows the performance is less. A thin radiator of suitable flow rate, will pass more airflow, either fan assisted or from frontal airpressure flow. The flowrate of air passed/through fins is what will cool the water!

While more heat MAY be generated by towing the heat comes from two sources, engine and auto torque converter. Modern autos run more gear ratios so a lockup lower gear doesn't create as much heat as a higher gear auto running with torque converter slip at high rate.
Fitting an additional cooler for the auto will ensure the heat isn't given to the engine coolant and so will keep auto cooler and leave the engine coolant temp difference reserve far better/cooler for cooling the engine when working really hard.

Personal experience comment.
On a Holden 1 tonner which used to overheat with a slug Holden engine and a thick 3 radiator, both were removed and an RB30 Nissan engine with auto and a Mitsubishi Verada single row radiator with two fans for slower speeds, meant the vehicle could tow at 100kmh with 2 1/2 ton behind and not overheat. Something the thick radiator could never do on a 40C day.

Be impressed with mates talk and seller speak, but deal in facts and use the OE radiator and a trans cooler for the times when the situation requires more cooling than the original setup can provide without elevating auto or engine temps.
Just think, how is your usage going to be far in excess of thousands of others who tow big vans everyday?
PS Using the OE radiator and a decent cooler is also far cheaper than a thick fancy shiny radiator.


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 4:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:22 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Sydney
Thanks for the replies, gents but my issue is that I do have an additional cooler installed already.
But my car runs very close to the max and on one occasion the Ute went into limp mode.
Yes I have checked thermostat, spotlights, number plates, but I still haven't got a decent result.
That's why I was looking to get a bigger radiator, I like the rest of us don't like wasting money but if it fixes a problem then I consider the money well spent.
Regards.


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 4:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:25 pm
Posts: 689
Location: Baldivis WA
Just_Misplaced, what model do you have?

I was towing our 2500kg van yesterday sitting on 110k/h (100 on GPS) and using the Scangauge11 I was seeing coolant temperature of 106 and ATF virtually the same but it was 42 degrees outside and into a strong wind.

I have heard of people having problems with the older model but not with the latest - mine is a MY14 auto.

_________________
2014 LST Ash Beige. SMM Steel canopy, Outback Drawers, dual battery with 2 x 160W solar panels (keeps the beers nice and cold), 135L tank, TJM T15 alloy bar with Xray-vision LED lights, Dumbo Clearview Mirrors. The ultimate tow truck.


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:22 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Sydney
Hi Bob, Mine is also a 2014 LSU model and would be towing almost the same weight as you are.
Like you my temperature were almost the same area 118 & 112 when the Ute went into limp mode.
That day outside temperature was around 42-45
easily.
But my speed was around 90klm per hour, I know in my travels that I will be running into days like that again.
So I would rather have the problem fixed now rather than sitting on the side of the road with bonnet up waiting for it to cool down or until help arrives.
Regards


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1402
Just-Misplaced

If you have a cooler fitted is it in the HOT line from the auto to the radiator, OR, isit in the return line from the radiator going back to the auto?

I say that because, IF cooler is in the return line it means the extremely HOT fluid is being delivered to the already HOT engine radiator and the bottom or rad will be hotter and unable to absorb as much heat. Many peole fit them that way and it still overheats the auto and ads to the engine water heat too.

If the cooler is in the exit line, the hottest line from the auto to rad, it is the hottest temp above ambient temp and therefore allows the maximum heat dissipation to be done in the shortest time and so adds far less heat to the already “getting hot” radiator water at the bottom which goes straight into the engine to try and keep it cool.

A simple check of your fan thermo clutch fan hub will make sure it is operating properly when it is heated by hot radiator air. Heating the hub with a heat gun or hair drier to 80 C should create a significant drag of the fan when the blades made to rotate by hand. ENGINE STOPPED OF COURSE.
If the fan hub doesn’t resist much when heated as above then it may require replacement, it is a vital part of ultimate cooling airflow through the radiator, the vital bit of cooling.

Check the fan hub first before doing anything else as it is essential to operate properly, no matter what driving you do.


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:22 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Sydney
mydmax, thanks for the suggestion, I will give it a try and see what happens.
I have had the transmission cooler setup so it takes the brunt of the heat before it enters the radiator.

So now I have to try and get the cooling sorted and ready for our trips which will at some point involves some very hot days.
Regards


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 Post subject: Re: Aluminium Radiators
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 8:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1402
Just-Misplaced

Hope it all works out for you and you find the offending item easily.


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