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 Post subject: Servicing shenanigans
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 6:51 pm
Posts: 788
Location: God's country
Haven't posted in ages! My '13 D-Max is now 6 years old and 125k of faultless motoring... until today!! :D

Did my usual 5k oil and filter change today (just those two). I replace the engine oil, oil filter air filter, fuel filter and cabin filters every 10k, and alternate with a 5k oil and oil filter change due to lots of short distance trips. My engine doesn't even reach operating temperatures when I leave home and park at work, as it's only 8km and less than 10 minute drive, so frequent oil and filter changes are necessary.

For the first time in my entire life, the oil filter wouldn't budge! I fitted it myself in January, and as far as I recall did nothing different to when fitting oil filters dozens of times over the years on all my previous cars and 4wds.

So I blew the dust off my old oil filter wrench which is one of these:

Image

Not much room to work, so I removed the plastic engine shroud (first time ever) so that I had a bit more room, and I still couldn't get it undone :evil:

So down to the auto parts store in my wife's car, and got one of these claw like ones that grips on the top:

Image

I recall reading of these twisting the body off the filter still leaving the base attached to the car. So I put it on and carefully, and with trepidation started to apply pressure to remove my stuck filter.

Luckily it did the trick, but by crikey, it was stuck hard and came loose with a "crack". The filter body was dented due to the forces. :o

I suspect I didn't lubricate the rubber gasket seal enough when fitting it. I made sure to add enough oil onto the rubber o-ring fitting the new filter.

So with the oil change out of the way, I turned my attention to replacing the passenger side high beam globe which blew during the week. I removed the battery just so that I had more room to work.

Afterwards did a quick road test and had the usual traction control/stability control light (not sure which one, the one with squiggly lines under the car icon) illuminate and stay lit up for a little while. I've had this happen when I replaced my battery before,and it switched off after a few minutes driving.

Went to the shops, and when I started to drive it home, the check-engine light (CEL) was illuminated. What the??!!! :o That's never happened before. I got home, shut the car down, waited 5 minutes and restarted, the check-engine light was still illuminated. Bugger! Thinking it might be like the traction control light needing a little drive to make it go away, I went for a 10 minute drive, and the light stayed illuminated the whole time. Funnily enough, I noticed that my Ultra-Gauge2 scan gauge wasn't lit up showing things like it usually does. So all sorts of doomsday scenarios were playing in my mind. :lol:

I was thinking the CEL has got to be a phantom reading, coming on from the battery being disconnected for 15 minutes. So I drove back home, shut everything down and remembered I hadn't put the engine shroud back on. So did that, and when I re-started, the CEL did not illuminate at all.

That's got me scratching my head why the CEL came on - and stayed on - for some time. Weird.

I also noticed I've got a small split in the passenger side CV boot rubber, and it's sprayed a bit oil grease around. So I'll order one of those and that can be next weekend's project. :D


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 7:58 pm
Posts: 273
Location: Brisbane
Sounds like an adventure, a fault finding nightmare !
You could ride a bike to work and let the Dmax sleep In


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 3:52 am
Posts: 96
Location: UK
Maybe you need a high level scan tool to clear that warning light? Which one would you buy?...I'm also thinking of getting one at some point.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 7:02 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1581
earthman
I would have thought a Ultra gauge 2 can clear a code as clear as you can get and a more expensive scan tool can't do any more.
Most read codes and pending codes and permanently stored codes for perusal.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 6:51 pm
Posts: 788
Location: God's country
Duck wrote:
Sounds like an adventure, a fault finding nightmare !
You could ride a bike to work and let the Dmax sleep In


I do that a few days a week, except not in winter, too cold especially in the mornings!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 6:51 pm
Posts: 788
Location: God's country
mydmax wrote:
earthman
I would have thought a Ultra gauge 2 can clear a code as clear as you can get and a more expensive scan tool can't do any more.
Most read codes and pending codes and permanently stored codes for perusal.


Yep, it claims it can do that. I'd need to read the manual to refresh my mind as I've never had to do it before.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1581
I always carry a printed copy of codes and use it to refer to if / when I need to diagnose a reason for limp mode. Had to use it twice so far when the turbo control chamber hose dropped off and on a low atmospheric day and with a 3" exhaust there was not enough EGR flow. Scangauge cleared both. A wise person would never travel in the outback without a scanning gauge and code list. If you can't use it, someone else probably can and get you moving again. Cheap insurance and travel holiday not ruined/ ended.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 2:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 3:52 am
Posts: 96
Location: UK
mydmax wrote:
earthman
I would have thought a Ultra gauge 2 can clear a code as clear as you can get and a more expensive scan tool can't do any more.
Most read codes and pending codes and permanently stored codes for perusal.


You got to be joking?...I'm talking about a bi directional type of scan tool, I've just been looking at this one, still not that cheap though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atAIPQGz87g


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 10:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
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earthman
I know you mentioned buying a "high level" scan tool, but you didn't say why. Didn't know you wanted to "look inside the ECU brain". For normal people use, the average stuff is sufficient, if you want to interact with the ECU and perform other functions then spend the money. Most people do not want to and don't know what they are seeing anyway even if they could.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2019 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 3:52 am
Posts: 96
Location: UK
I probably tackle more jobs than most but can't really afford to buy that tool, it's aimed at small garages etc.

I'm willing to pay a couple of hundred if the tool can activate the ABS pump to aid with fluid replacement, none of the cheaper/basic scan tools can do that from what I gather.


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