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NEW D-MAX /MUX /COLORADO FORUM •

NEW D-MAX /MUX /COLORADO FORUM

NEW D-MAX /MUX /COLORADO FORUM
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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 6:26 am 
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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 9:49 am 
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I have had a good look and contacted several loom providers.

The MUX has LED headlights
There is a 6 pin plug that plugs into another plug and 6 wires feed from this into the sealed headlight.

I cannot get a loom to piggy back off this from anyone.
I'm reluctant to start chopping into the wires because they are all so small.

I will try and get a high beam take off from the fuse for the high beam, but there isn't a lot of room inside the fuse box to fit a side entry piggy back fuse.
The bit hanging out the side interferes with the box.
I have even contacted ISUZU, they only want $900.00 to fit and supply headlights .........ONLY? I don't have that sort of money or the lack on one damn wire.


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plug.jpg [ 243.92 KiB | Viewed 5451 times ]
HL saved.jpg
HL saved.jpg [ 70.56 KiB | Viewed 5451 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 10:55 am 
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Posts: 1648
Valkie
Asking Isuzu for anything, ie, mods etc, will always be a non event. A headlight fuse may be live all the time the headlights are switched ON, therefore not on only when when high beam selected. Of the wires going into the LEDheadlight controller, not the ones from it to headlights, there should be one of those loom to controller entry wires which becomes +ve ON when HB is selected. Just a sharp pin into the wire will reveal the one which is ON when HB is on.
If you find it, push the pin through the wire parting the strands. Select a thin aux wire and cut all but 3 or 4 strands from the bared end of that new wire. If inserted through the pinhole and then squeezed and taped, it will run a relay coil for you. Nothing expensive and no cutting into loom wires either
It can be removed easily if required and the place unseen.


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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 1:14 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 1:49 pm 
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Posts: 1648
Valkie
To activate a controling relay like the one in your wiring loom of the LED bar, it will omly require approx 200ma, ie, 0.2 amps to make it switch the relay ON.

Approx 50mm to 80mm on the vehicle side of th eLED headlight control, if you probe the wires, one at a time whicle switching the HB, on then off, I would be pretty sure you will find a wire which becomes 12v + when the HB is ON.
Therefore, the pin probe allows a multi meter set on 12v to detect that happening. If you find such a wire by pin probing that can be used. I have used a pin to then pass through that wire and with a few bare starnds of the additional signal wire you will use, the few starnds can be passed through the loom wire without compromising it's functionality. The new wire if squeezed at that point will contact the original wire and then laid parallel to the wire and taped it will perform the duty of suppluing a HB signal feed to the LED bar loom system. Fuse that wire with a 3amp fuse and all will be well. Every time the HB is then activated either by normal position or HB flash, the LED bar will also come on.Many points of vehicle wiring have internal connections which are crimped with a paralleled wire. They take some current. Your demand will be about the same an interior roof light or less. I have a 20100 Dmax and som efunctions I added are simple attachments, ie, a wire loop arounfd a leg of a fuse or relay pin to access the function I require. Yes you can go and buy proprietary items to do it but have to travel to buy and then cost as well.

I recently fitted a light bar to my 2010 Corolla and I use a solid state relay from jaycar. It is an electronic switch, instead of a mechanical relay. All the same idea though and run off similar points to source the signal.

Hope you get it sorted.


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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:32 am 
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Posts: 36
Well;

I went down the path of modifying the piggy back and using the high beam fuse option.
It was simple, reversible and impossible to stuff up.

I simply removed the R/H high beam fuse and fitted a piggy back fuse take off.
But I had to modify the piggy back because the wire comes out the side and this interfered with the relay next to it.
A simple job of cutting the insulation and bending the tag, then using liquid insulation to re-insulate the termination.

For those unfamiliar with a piggy back, it is simply two fuses on top of each other.
They work off the fuse holder and feed power to the two fuses.
The fuses work independently,
The one on the bottom does the job of the first fuse.
The one on the top is where the wire come out to give a feed.
But you have to know which side of the fuse holder is live otherwise the top fuse may not function as a fuse.
Just to be safe, I only put a 5 amp fuse in the top fuse (the takeoff) and used the 10 amp original for the normal fuse.
That way the top one will blow first, if there is a short.

The picture below shows the installation.
To remove it you pull out the piggy back and re-install the 10 amp fuse.


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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 1:44 pm 
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Posts: 1648
Valkie
Seeing the relay coil fed from the piggy back 5 amp fuse is only a current of approx. 0.2 amps a 5 amp fuse is ok and serves the purpose and is pretty normal. Even so the 5 amp fuse is 25 times more than the relay coil current so ample supply.
Good to find the right spot like that and hope all works well.


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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 5:15 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 6:51 pm 
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Valkie
Are the relay/s running the older Halogens getting their heavy current supply via heavy wiring from source to relay and heavy to each light? if not they will be running low on voltage and be dim.

I run all lights via a heavy wire from the alternator terminal, not the battery. If relays connected to battery , then the alt to battery cable is also in the circuit of the lights and under heavy charging the voltage at the battery will be less than optimal. The alt IS the basic source of all power, not the battery. On a previous vehicle I ran the relays for both driving lights direct from the alternator with heavy wiring. I only used 55w globes and the resulting 14v at ALL lights meant the 55w spotlights were far brighter than nearly all 100w globes of other vehicles. It is the colour temp which you are after. 120w absolutely demand everything to be top notch or they will be low voltage and dimmer than a 55w globe. A 55w globe demands 1/2 the current of a 120watt globe, easier on alt and everything in circuit. Change tp 55w globes and watch the light output increase beyond expectations. I have never use 100w or more globe for that reason. cost more too. When a 100w globe stars it instantaneously draws in excess of 24 amps or 120 watt even more. That means the temp shock on startup reduces the larger globes life, 55w lightup easily, draw less in any situation and last.


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 Post subject: Re: Dmax switch blanks
PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 5:37 am 
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