2 inch lift 2016 Dmax

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LeeBalls
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2024 9:06 am

2 inch lift 2016 Dmax

Post by LeeBalls »

Hi all. I have purchase a 2" outback armour heavy duty 500kg lift kit for my 2016 dmax. Wondering if any has experience with this kit, wanted to know if it's worth it and with a 2" lift is it necessary to relocate brake line or drop the diff? Or can I just bolt it in and drive. Cheers.
mydmax
Posts: 2066
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: 2 inch lift 2016 Dmax

Post by mydmax »

LB are you saying you bought a collection of gear to raise the vehicle without knowing anything about what it will cause?
Tink
Posts: 2063
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 10:54 pm
Location: Darling Downs. Qld

Re: 2 inch lift 2016 Dmax

Post by Tink »

@Leeballs for 2”, no diff drop and no brake line relocation required.
mydmax
Posts: 2066
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: 2 inch lift 2016 Dmax

Post by mydmax »

LB
Having a 2' lift WILL make the front unis run at a higher angle than OE and so, seeing the vehicle has run for 7 years already the path of the uni drive trunnions inside the outer BELLS will NOW have to run further than before and that, IF the uni bell is worn a little will make the trunnion balls units flick over the ridge formed by wear. That may reduce the life of the cv joints, depending on how the use has been previously.
You aren't going to make the suspension work more articulation than before and so brake lines will be within OE specs.
The reap springs MAY/WILL make the pinion (angle to body work) more than before and increase the uni joint drive angle especially at the rear uni. You then may experience vibes or shudder or both in the driveline at high torque/acceleration or load. If it has a centre bearing it might need to be lowered AND possibly wedges fitted to the rear axle to correct LOSS of correct drive angle. ie thick edges of the shim wedges to the rear of spring pads. Some spring packs are rubbish and actually make the pinion face more downward than OE, where it should be/ HAS TO BE, pointing up a little to make things within uni drive angle specs, ie, less than 2 degrees.

Lifting reduces the DOWNWARD amount if travel the suspension can DROOP TO when leaving the ground and in some cases in certain conditions cause by mods, the wheels CAN'T now travel downward to keep in touch with the ground and so loss of control can be experienced because the tyres leave contact with the ground at crucial times. From standing at rest, jacking the vehicle until a wheel is off the ground, that corner/each corner, should still retain 1/3 of TOTAL WHEEL TRAVEL DISTANCE Available. ie, can droop 1/3rd of total.
Lifting a vehicle creates a whole new set of problems and conditions which have to be addressed otherwise less life of components is experienced and/or the vehicle becomes dangerous.
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