When to change oil

Danno
Posts: 3274
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:23 am
Location: Darwin... sort of.

Re: When to change oil

Post by Danno »

Did mine yesterday at 4000, black as, which is good as far as the oil is concerned, it means it's doing its job properly, part of which is to catch impurities from combustion etc. and that bloody Egr and hold it in suspension, turning the oil black, if the oil is coming out clean you've either got a very very clean burning motor which is very rare or your choice of oil might not be up to it with maybe not enough detergent properties or something which means it could be sludging the motor, I've had this happen to me in my Nissan, I'd been using a very well known brand of oil and it had been coming out cleanish for years, then it started to take a litre less oil at every 5000 change, we pulled the sump off recently and it was a shocker, it took days to scrape it all out of the sump and walls of the block and it nearly half filled a 9L bucket.

Don't be overly concerned with your oil being black when you drop it, its done it's job.
Cheers
Dan
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Turkey
Posts: 622
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2014 4:45 pm
Location: Canberra

Re: When to change oil

Post by Turkey »

Danno wrote:Did mine yesterday at 4000, black as, which is good as far as the oil is concerned, it means it's doing its job properly, part of which is to catch impurities from combustion etc. and that bloody Egr and hold it in suspension, turning the oil black, if the oil is coming out clean you've either got a very very clean burning motor which is very rare or your choice of oil might not be up to it with maybe not enough detergent properties or something which means it could be sludging the motor, I've had this happen to me in my Nissan, I'd been using a very well known brand of oil and it had been coming out cleanish for years, then it started to take a litre less oil at every 5000 change, we pulled the sump off recently and it was a shocker, it took days to scrape it all out of the sump and walls of the block and it nearly half filled a 9L bucket.

Don't be overly concerned with your oil being black when you drop it, its done it's job.
Agreed, this is my understanding of 'how it works' also.
LSM MY15 Auto DC
Aussie
Posts: 789
Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 9:51 pm
Location: God's country

Re: When to change oil

Post by Aussie »

The opposite, is that many LPG powered vehicles can have oil that looks like new at change time. With LPG, it's a dry fuel, so you aren't getting mixing of petrol into the oil and gradual discolouration as the oil picks up the impurities and what not. However the engine oil from an LPG powered car can be corrosive come change time, as such it's just as important to change the oil.

My previous Patrol spent 99% of it's time running on LPG, and I've owned a few other others running on gas. Many a time I'd watch it draining out wondering if it was doing a decent job, simply as it looked so shiny and new.
bravoboy300
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 7:58 pm
Location: South Coast NSW

Re: When to change oil

Post by bravoboy300 »

All sorted now
garrytre
Posts: 661
Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:22 am
Location: adelaide hills

Re: When to change oil

Post by garrytre »

Some of you guys might know. The recommendation is to change every 10,000km in severe road conditions - dusty, muddy or off-road.

As far as I can tell the only route anything can get into the engine oil is through the air filter or fuel filter, then past the piston rings. So how is dust or mud (!!) going to get into the engine?
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.
meggs
Posts: 400
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2014 1:32 pm
Location: Central Queensland

Re: When to change oil

Post by meggs »

The severe conditions have nothing to do with what comes into your engine it is how it is used. Soot is the main killer in diesel engines and it is directly proportional to you usage. Highway running is very efficient and the least amount of fuel is being used. Towing, muddy conditions 4wheel driving are all inefficient use of fuel so more soot is generated and the oil has to accommodate this soot in suspension. Too much soot and it then agglomerates and starts blocking up oil galleries.
I change mine every 10,000klm as I drag a house around and that is an inefficient use of fuel.
garrytre
Posts: 661
Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:22 am
Location: adelaide hills

Re: When to change oil

Post by garrytre »

meggs wrote:The severe conditions have nothing to do with what comes into your engine it is how it is used. Soot is the main killer in diesel engines and it is directly proportional to you usage. Highway running is very efficient and the least amount of fuel is being used. Towing, muddy conditions 4wheel driving are all inefficient use of fuel so more soot is generated and the oil has to accommodate this soot in suspension. Too much soot and it then agglomerates and starts blocking up oil galleries.
I change mine every 10,000klm as I drag a house around and that is an inefficient use of fuel.
Well that clears up my problem with how mud gets into the motor. But re: workload, I'd understood just about the opposite. When I was driving Landcruisers, the owner who is a diesel mechanic said to make the engine work, keep the revs low, gear high, and keep my foot to the floor, so as to make the rings spread & maintain a seal. He said his biggest problem was with the big V8's that never really work hard, so got lots of blow-by and dirty oil.
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.
meggs
Posts: 400
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2014 1:32 pm
Location: Central Queensland

Re: When to change oil

Post by meggs »

garrytre wrote: When I was driving Landcruisers, the owner who is a diesel mechanic said to make the engine work, keep the revs low, gear high, and keep my foot to the floor, so as to make the rings spread & maintain a seal. He said his biggest problem was with the big V8's that never really work hard, so got lots of blow-by and dirty oil.
I don't know how much that now applies to auto engines but it is for stationary engines that have one speed for countless hours on end and glazing of cylinder walls is a problem.
Scamper
Posts: 48
Joined: Sun May 03, 2015 10:31 pm
Location: Darwin

Re: When to change oil

Post by Scamper »

Change my engine oil at 10,000km. Book says 20,000. Did it anyway.
It was black as!, glad I didn't wait and will not be waiting again. Also it felt nothing like the new oil.
Filter changed also. $15 from Isuzu.
Isuzu recommended Valvoline 15W 40 for the oil change.
As I know nothing about oils, I took their advice. Going to the auto store confirmed my lack of knowledge on oils.
The oil must come in a 100 shape and sizes.
7.5 liters out and 7.5 liters in.

Have a 2015 LSM, auto, took the bash plates off x 2, 4 bolts total, easy.
Glad I did, I know there is a hole to drop the oil, but getting the oil plug out, oil went in every direction around my hand.
Anyway, you have to take the plates off to change the filter which was relative easy to get too. Plenty of hand room.
( I used to own a subaru).
Chris in Darwin
GivenTime
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2018 10:58 pm

Auto Trans Oil Change

Post by GivenTime »

Howdy guys,
still working through the odd issue with servicing and finding parallel thrads elsewhere to know what to do.

Latest is Oil Changes in the sealed Auto trans of a 2014 Dmax.

the oil is Castrol Multivehicle transmax,
I never advocate a flush, only a refresh. small bits often make less significant change but have the effect. I know a few Auto Trans SPecialist that ascribe to this too.
Yes the oil system holds about 10.7 L at correct full fill but that is in the COller, the torque converter and the valve bloc/pan.
Draining the pan will only exchange about 3.2 L a time and that is fine for a yearly refresh. I have done mine successfully for about 4 years now. Each time you feel the shift improve, he kick down work better and overall just a lot, lot smoother through the changes. that means a very have transmission.

if you drain the cold box, you will only get about 4.2 L out. the drain is the 14mm hex bolt near the front of the pan. The fill is the 24mm "WS" plug on the Driver's side that looks like its in the transfer box. actually and 15/16 socket fits the shitty plug they are better, but as ALWAYS, make sure you can get this out before you open the drain. Carefully drain and refill with the same volume of oil from bottles that are in the same place as the car overnight, so the same temp and volume/wt. Refill with the same volume and you are technically good.

so, why technically? why did I say 3.2 L and yet I said drain about 4,2 out? that's because eth techs at Isuzu overfill the boxes. Being cynical I think its either incompetence of the kids and old farts they employ or they are deliberately trying to blow seals in the boxes. if they overfill the box by 10% that is hugely significant in a sealed Auto Trans.

many years ago, after doing two, annual changes of the same volume, and being perplexed by he flow from the "check" plug even when cold, I dug. the box is the same as they use in many Toyotas and the info for them is out there. the temp for checking is 97-113 degrees F. not surprising they cant have people checking oil and burning themselves so the oil can't be that much hotter than body temp. Given the temp at full operating temp is sizzling, the minor volume change between anywhere around 90-100 deg F on the bottom of the pan will do it fine.

After much pondering and then taking the huge plunge I actually drained the oil to the level the check gauge indicates and that took another 1 L out of the box. the trans runs fine and the down shift for engine braking is better. Not as good as when I test drove the car in 2014, but better than after that first service by them when they changed it. I had a vapour weep at the back of the trans, and since checking the level the way the Manufacturers of the box say to do it, that weep has never continued or re-appeared.

have a look for yourselves, the toyota Issin box is the one. Nothing special, and if pressed I think the transmax oil is really just a DEX III oil anyway but I persist with the spec oil as per Catrol''s pages. Cheap insurance on one of the two most expensive bits to repair in a car, is my way of looking at it.

do your own research and see if you come to the same conclusions. good luck.

cheers, Given TIme I will figure these things out.
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