Front Hubs

mydmax
Posts: 1933
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: Front Hubs

Post by mydmax »

DUck
Have a look at them and see the internals. If broken then they are not good.

Most will be perfect and have been rarely used. If off a vehicle which looks as though it spent it's days in the high country then be careful.
The spline dogs on the ring and inside the housing are the area where you need to look. If not chewed then they are ok.
Duck
Posts: 298
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:58 pm
Location: Brisbane

Re: Front Hubs

Post by Duck »

Thanks for that so any year model will work ?
MAT713
Posts: 109
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 12:41 pm
Location: Brisbane

Re: Front Hubs

Post by MAT713 »

Duck wrote:Thanks for that so any year model will work ?
Anything from 1987 I believe.



Thanks for the help guys, picked up a set of AVM 433 HP yesterday for $320. Can't complain, very friendly service and in stock.
Duck
Posts: 298
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:58 pm
Location: Brisbane

Re: Front Hubs

Post by Duck »

Will wait to hear if you had to use the torq bit on the way home.
Pedr888

Re: Front Hubs

Post by Pedr888 »

Coming up to 6 weeks and 3000 highway km since fitting.
Did notice a very slight gain in KM/L but more in my imagination I think.
The old girl is much much happier generally and Im now be able to maneuver and reverse up my drive easily.
What did happen was that the fuel consumption went up after fitting the Bridgestone AT..which are a wonderful tyre in the wet and on highway, given chunky tread pattern, but they are quite 'sticky', and I doubt they'll make 40,000km. Going up from Grafton to Glen Innes you can hear them gripping hard on the corners. Anyway, I have complete confidence in these tyres so extra fuel is just part of that I guess.
Regardless, imho, fitting the FWH and these great tyres are right up there with the fitting of the DBR Slotted rotors and the Bendix HP pads.
Im usually right on GVM at jussssst under 3000kg, and compared to when I bought it in April last year, its an infinitely better light 4wd on the highway. FWIW I average 10.5km/l on flat highway,generally averaging 10 km/l to the Murray and back. No trailer but AWL canopy filled to the brim. Next time I'll fit the better quality AVM. One crap thing, only superficial but, the caps on the hubs are already highly oxidised...6 weeks!
MtnMan
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2022 8:50 pm

Re: Front Hubs

Post by MtnMan »

mydmax wrote: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:06 pm Make sure when fitting FWH you ensure the end float of the CV shaft is NO MORE THAN 0.2mm. Preferably less ie, 0.1mm or thereabouts. Has to have some running clearance for lube between running faces.

The reason for that is so the centre point of the outer CV's operation/function is inline with the steering axis between the ball joints. If not in line they crunch CV's because the parts aren't running in unison when on a turn.

Adjustment is by having the correct shim thickness between the drive spline inner and the circlip.

Sorry for the reply to an old thread. new member here trawling the forum looking for info.

regarding the shims to place the CV with the steering axis- When you replace the upper control arm with an adjustable one during a suspension lift wouldn't you be moving the steering axis between the ball joints when you adjust for castor and camber?
mustangdude
Posts: 102
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 9:32 pm
Location: Brisbane

Re: Front Hubs

Post by mustangdude »

Don't know sorry. I only fitted free wheeling hubs.
mydmax
Posts: 1933
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: Front Hubs

Post by mydmax »

MtnMan.
Short answer NO. Arms have nothing to do with it at all. The steering axis is the line through/between the upper and lower ball joint centres and does not change. The action articulation centre of the CV, ie, the centre of it's action, should be kept on the same line, hence the, no more than 0.2mm endfloat, of the CV bell in the hub. If it is more or the OE tolerance is not observed when fitting freewheel hubs or servicing bearings, the CV will sort of drive ok ONLY when in straight ahead position, but the CV centre and line through ball joints will alter and the CV will try to move away from the steering support by the amount of excessive endfloat as it is also driving torque through the system. The CV would be trying to jump inwards and outward all the time instead of running smoothly in it's running centre position. Short CV life!
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