wheel alignment / deformation

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garrytre
Posts: 704
Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:22 am
Location: adelaide hills

wheel alignment / deformation

Post by garrytre »

Wheel changes.
I use one of these - a jack & lift-mate, to get the wheel up, then stick an axle stand underneath. It means I don't have to lift the bull bar 2 meters up in the air.
When I do a front wheel, I seem to need a wheel alignment afterward.
Is this just chance, or is it likely to cause deformation?
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If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.
mydmax
Posts: 2066
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: wheel alignment / deformation

Post by mydmax »

G'day Garry,
That should not create any different forces to the chassis than driving over a large gutter and lifting that side up. Can't see why you would need a wheel alignment. How do you detect it needs alignment?
The only way a correction is needed is IF the jacking of the wheel causes a twisting of the chassis each time it is used, ie negative camber/ more and more and more.
Always make sure the steering lock isn't active when using though. To allow any difference of pull to equalize and not strain on the rack.
garrytre
Posts: 704
Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:22 am
Location: adelaide hills

Re: wheel alignment / deformation

Post by garrytre »

thanks MDM
>How do you detect it needs alignment?
By the tyre place saying so. But that's my Q, is there a correlation. Seems not.
>Always make sure the steering lock isn't active when using though.
Good hint, hadn't thought of that.
thx again
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.
mydmax
Posts: 2066
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: wheel alignment / deformation

Post by mydmax »

G'day Garry.
Well, I think the tyre place will always say it needed an alignment, They are $$$$$$$$$$$ focussed after all. Unless they are totally honest and will refuse a $ if alignment is not needed then ok. If the tyres are not wearing abnormally, never let a "so called alignment expert" touch it. I have a friend who almost fights the tyre changer people NOT to have any alignment. Even if no adjustment is required they charge for it because they had it on the machine. I always use a long straight edge across tyre face at approx 30 degree down angle so a point is marked on floor front and rear of tyre at around 500mm back. measure between to see toe in/out amounts. I also use a metal fame digital angle meter/inclinometer to measure camber across a "square" rim face. If the meter is applied to the axle housing on each side in a machines flat spot of the housing, (mine near upper ball joint), the caster can also be easily determined.
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