Front wheel hub regrease

Guipago
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 2:48 pm
Location: Mudgee

Front wheel hub regrease

Post by Guipago »

Thinking of saving some dollars & doing it myself, doing the jobs not the problem, any special tools or the use of a press needed? May have to get a rattle gun, sockets etc but I have most tools(motorcycle mechanic for 30yrs) it's the special ones that may stall it. Thanks
Geoff
stevespatrol
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2014 4:43 pm

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by stevespatrol »

Its not that hard at all (when you compare it to a GU patrol front hub)
I just did it on my 2010 Holden Colorado and the only tool i did not have and
i had to borrow was a set of circlip pliers and the rest is so easy.
I pulled everything apart and removed the seals degrease and repacked each side
with in about 1/2 each side and i am very fussy with the hub tension being spot on.
Have a go and you will be surprised on how easy it is considering your mechanical back-
ground.
Guipago
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 2:48 pm
Location: Mudgee

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by Guipago »

Thanks Steve, sounds like a go, this hub tension would be the same on the D-max? Any manuals surfaced yet?
Geoff
Danno
Posts: 3265
Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:23 am
Location: Darwin... sort of.

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by Danno »

Guipago wrote:Thanks Steve, sounds like a go, this hub tension would be the same on the D-max? Any manuals surfaced yet?
No manual for the current model but it would probably be the same as the previous of which you can get a manual. You would do it by feel anyway Geoff just like any other car, using a torque wrench is pretty hit and miss with wheel bearings, in 25 years working on cars I've never used one for that.
Cheers
Dan
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stevespatrol
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2014 4:43 pm

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by stevespatrol »

when it came time to set the bearings i put the big nut on the axle then put the wheel on and did 3 nuts up tight then proceeded to tension that way and it worked out well.
earthman
Posts: 108
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 5:52 am
Location: UK

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by earthman »

I discovered that one of my bearings had a bit of play in it, ended up fabricating this tool so I could do it by the book.
Workshop manual states that that hub ring should be tightend to 29Nm before being fully loosend, then use a spring balance on one of the wheel studs afterwards, a new bearing should give a reading of 20-25Nm and a reused bearing should be 12-18Nm

Image

I'm not sure if all years/versions of this truck have the same type of hub bearing set up, the video below is what my 2013 model has.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuXoAIpA6Ds&t=472s
mydmax
Posts: 1740
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by mydmax »

earthman
I presume yours has two rings, one adjuster /inner and an outer lockring which the screws pass through. Same as always. If you do the bearings up to a pretension, ie, negative clearance, and then the hub gets hotter than the axle unit, the bearings then get hot from being even more preloaded than before because the hub gets longer than the axle does. Makes bearings real tight.. I never use a pre tension idea system. May work initially on new bearings but it may cause far too much heat on the bearing faces and destroy the bearing. Best to have a digital infrared thermometer to shine on the bub after a longer drive to check before and after temps. Here in Oz, the hubs on my old landcruiser got quite warm with distance travel, if they were pre loaded first then they come out BLUE. I adjust my Dmax to 'rattle' of the hub and then increase until any perceptible rattle or looseness is eliminated but not pre tensioned. Using Teflon grease also helps long life of bearings and far lessens the bearing surface wear from altering the adjustment you set. Providing sufficient grease in the hub, so it is above the inner and outer cup edges will permit a flow of lube through the bearings while they are running. Many people just grease the cone and cup slightly and expect bearings to last.
earthman
Posts: 108
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 5:52 am
Location: UK

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by earthman »

mydax
Yes mine has that locking ring with all them holes in it, which can only be placed over the shaft in one of two ways due to the slots/cut outs, then 3 tiny screws keep it in place.

When working on all my vehicles I go by the letter of the genuine factory workshop manual, they invented/designed/put the thing together in the first place, if they don't know the correct procedure etc then who does!

I do have an infrared thermometer, that's a good idea, will experiment/check, thankfully it's rarely that hot here in the UK,....there's no way I could live somewhere that has extreme heat like OZ.
mydmax
Posts: 1740
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by mydmax »

earthman,
I understand tech adjustments, but setting the bearings to a negative tightness, albeit small, does cause the generation of undue heat in the bearings. Quite a few here have had to replace bearings under 20,000km because they were blued. The hub is designed to spin and not be friction retarded. I do not understand why Isuzu say that. It reduces bearing life considerably. I began adjusting dual axle semi trailer hubs as an apprentice. If made tight they failed soon after on the road carrying a large tank of molten bitumen. No slack, but not tight works for me. I have seen tension spring balance use for rotational drag but only use it to set diff pinion bearings.
earthman
Posts: 108
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 5:52 am
Location: UK

Re: Front wheel hub regrease

Post by earthman »

mydmax wrote: No slack, but not tight works for me.
How exactly are you achieving this then? If say you are grabbing hold of the wheel at the 6 o'clock position and rocking/feeling for any movement, how accurate can a human's arms/feel be? What if you don't detect any movement but someone else who happens to be bigger and stronger than you has a go and does? Maybe using a dti gauge on the wheel rim is the way to go??

This is why I personally prefer to use gauges/test equipment especially when the manufacturer specifies such like in their workshop manuals, those should provide an accurate figure at least.
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