G'day all,
First post
I am looking at fitting some heavy duty pro racks to my 2016 dmax dual cab LSM
There are two variations to fit .
1 drill and insert nut serts or drill and tap and seal.
2 screw to the supplied screwed fittings under the strips on the roof.
Now how do I tell if my vehicle has the supplied threaded fittings in the strips as drilling into and sealing up the roof I'm not overly keen on?
The strips are glued on and I'll need to cut some strip out to see the threaded fittings .
But are they there ???
Some help would appreciated .
Jason
Roof rack mounts.
Re: Roof rack mounts.
If nobody else replies with more reliable info, here's what I remember from the thread about it a few years ago. Maybe you could find that. google site:http://www.newd-max.net roof rack
I wanted to put roof racks on my SX and found that every other model (but not mine) has built-in threaded holes easily accessible under the rubber strips. My SX only option was clipons.
If I was you, I'd wait & hope somebody else answers to confirm the above, &/or pull a rubber strip off and look. Shouldn't be hard to glue back.
I wanted to put roof racks on my SX and found that every other model (but not mine) has built-in threaded holes easily accessible under the rubber strips. My SX only option was clipons.
If I was you, I'd wait & hope somebody else answers to confirm the above, &/or pull a rubber strip off and look. Shouldn't be hard to glue back.
If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.
Re: Roof rack mounts.
G'day Jason
I don't own a 2016, only a 2011 which has NO threaded ports in the roof.
If, IF, your model has the threaded holes under the roof strips, they are in the strongest section of the roof and can bear weight as designed.
I cannot tell you where they are, ie distance from ends, but if you go that way you have to remove sufficient strip to allow the channel, T channel I presume, to be screwed to the roof grooves.
Mine required 7 per side drill holes and therefore I used Sikaflex to both seal, support and glue the channel to the roof grooves. I had to drill and seal and fit strip and POP rivet, before the Sikaflex became too hard to allow bedding.
On yours,
Once you know how much strip has to be removed, the holes should be reasonably easy to find.
Trouble with drill holes method is two fold, You have to drill in a position where there is sufficient thickness of base material to be able to tap the holes for a proper amount of thread, where is that? Also getting the swarf out may be a problem. Vacuum cleaner and small plastic hose does work.
You alo have to ensure you use a drill with a tube over the drill bit, ie, depth limiter, so sudden breakthrough doesn't allow the drill bit to make a hole in roof lining which varies in it's distance from the roof underside.
Whatever screws are used also have to be coated in sealant/Sikaflex so they cannot allow water to leak into the roof lining and all parts are sealed to the paint surface for sealing integrity.
When settling the strip at installation, make sure the top of the channel is level. Because of roof metal variations and some OE sealant, when finally fixing it down, the channel may become slightly twisted and not flat orientation for all it's length, mine did twist slightly, so a screw system with a prefit to check all is a good idea before the final sealant and finish.
One of the blokes who has fitted theirs may be able to tell you where the actual screw threaded sections are. Also a body repair/panel beater may have the info in the body views on their repair data.
Good luck with it all.
I don't own a 2016, only a 2011 which has NO threaded ports in the roof.
If, IF, your model has the threaded holes under the roof strips, they are in the strongest section of the roof and can bear weight as designed.
I cannot tell you where they are, ie distance from ends, but if you go that way you have to remove sufficient strip to allow the channel, T channel I presume, to be screwed to the roof grooves.
Mine required 7 per side drill holes and therefore I used Sikaflex to both seal, support and glue the channel to the roof grooves. I had to drill and seal and fit strip and POP rivet, before the Sikaflex became too hard to allow bedding.
On yours,
Once you know how much strip has to be removed, the holes should be reasonably easy to find.
Trouble with drill holes method is two fold, You have to drill in a position where there is sufficient thickness of base material to be able to tap the holes for a proper amount of thread, where is that? Also getting the swarf out may be a problem. Vacuum cleaner and small plastic hose does work.
You alo have to ensure you use a drill with a tube over the drill bit, ie, depth limiter, so sudden breakthrough doesn't allow the drill bit to make a hole in roof lining which varies in it's distance from the roof underside.
Whatever screws are used also have to be coated in sealant/Sikaflex so they cannot allow water to leak into the roof lining and all parts are sealed to the paint surface for sealing integrity.
When settling the strip at installation, make sure the top of the channel is level. Because of roof metal variations and some OE sealant, when finally fixing it down, the channel may become slightly twisted and not flat orientation for all it's length, mine did twist slightly, so a screw system with a prefit to check all is a good idea before the final sealant and finish.
One of the blokes who has fitted theirs may be able to tell you where the actual screw threaded sections are. Also a body repair/panel beater may have the info in the body views on their repair data.
Good luck with it all.
-
Jasonkozak
Re: Roof rack mounts.
Yep pull the strip off was the next move .garrytre wrote:If nobody else replies with more reliable info, here's what I remember from the thread about it a few years ago. Maybe you could find that. google site:http://www.newd-max.net roof rack
I wanted to put roof racks on my SX and found that every other model (but not mine) has built-in threaded holes easily accessible under the rubber strips. My SX only option was clipons.
If I was you, I'd wait & hope somebody else answers to confirm the above, &/or pull a rubber strip off and look. Shouldn't be hard to glue back.
Cheers for the reply
-
Jasonkozak
Re: Roof rack mounts.
Cheers for the heads up thanks for some great info .mydmax wrote:G'day Jason
I don't own a 2016, only a 2011 which has NO threaded ports in the roof.
If, IF, your model has the threaded holes under the roof strips, they are in the strongest section of the roof and can bear weight as designed.
I cannot tell you where they are, ie distance from ends, but if you go that way you have to remove sufficient strip to allow the channel, T channel I presume, to be screwed to the roof grooves.
Mine required 7 per side drill holes and therefore I used Sikaflex to both seal, support and glue the channel to the roof grooves. I had to drill and seal and fit strip and POP rivet, before the Sikaflex became too hard to allow bedding.
On yours,
Once you know how much strip has to be removed, the holes should be reasonably easy to find.
Trouble with drill holes method is two fold, You have to drill in a position where there is sufficient thickness of base material to be able to tap the holes for a proper amount of thread, where is that? Also getting the swarf out may be a problem. Vacuum cleaner and small plastic hose does work.
You alo have to ensure you use a drill with a tube over the drill bit, ie, depth limiter, so sudden breakthrough doesn't allow the drill bit to make a hole in roof lining which varies in it's distance from the roof underside.
Whatever screws are used also have to be coated in sealant/Sikaflex so they cannot allow water to leak into the roof lining and all parts are sealed to the paint surface for sealing integrity.
When settling the strip at installation, make sure the top of the channel is level. Because of roof metal variations and some OE sealant, when finally fixing it down, the channel may become slightly twisted and not flat orientation for all it's length, mine did twist slightly, so a screw system with a prefit to check all is a good idea before the final sealant and finish.
One of the blokes who has fitted theirs may be able to tell you where the actual screw threaded sections are. Also a body repair/panel beater may have the info in the body views on their repair data.
Good luck with it all.
Re: Roof rack mounts.
I have a lsm 2013 & it has the bracket. The rhino bars I got gave the measurements to cut the weather strips back & the brackets were there
Re: Roof rack mounts.
Hi All... know this may be a bit late but "I found the threads on the DMAX SX 2017 (so should be same 2012-2017)" the problem is you have to drill through the skin.... So. Measure 365mm from front windscreen along the channel (remove weather/trim first) and mark. Measure between the rubber strip and the inside wall of channel (20mm) Centre punch at 1/2 way (10mm). for safety start with 3mm drill (should go through easily but be careful not to drill to far and drill into roof lining) go up to 6mm and do same. The carefully drill with 8mm drill (should only have to go through to metal skins). You can see the thread with 6mm. If not centre drill bits (3mm and 6mm) should self correct). I am only putting on a front bar (Prorack) but Prorack have the next nut at 1260 from the front window... fingers crossed the second nut should be there. A note if fitting other racks the SX only has 3 nut positions on them, One at the front and two at the rear (or so they say).. good luck
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AnnaleiseG
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:29 pm
Re: Roof rack mounts.
Hoping this will help someone else out; I've just installed an Ocam Industries flat rack on my 2017 MUX LSM. No instructions came with the rack 
but was a bargain and once on looks great!
The issue I ran into was no predrilled holes for the bolts and had no reference for where to drill (LSM issue?). Got there in the end utilsing a few different info sources (including the post above, thank you FNQDMAX for the front measurement!) and so to hopefully save someone else having to search a few hrs and drill randomly (thank God for silicone
), here's the measurements for where the factory mounts are under the skin (starting from front windshield):
1. 255mm
1. 365mm
2. 795mm
3. 1500mm
4. 2005mm
4. 2125mm
Ocam has four brackets each side with 2x front, 1x second, 1x third, 2x fourth screw points; hence the numbers above for reference
but was a bargain and once on looks great! The issue I ran into was no predrilled holes for the bolts and had no reference for where to drill (LSM issue?). Got there in the end utilsing a few different info sources (including the post above, thank you FNQDMAX for the front measurement!) and so to hopefully save someone else having to search a few hrs and drill randomly (thank God for silicone
), here's the measurements for where the factory mounts are under the skin (starting from front windshield):1. 255mm
1. 365mm
2. 795mm
3. 1500mm
4. 2005mm
4. 2125mm
Ocam has four brackets each side with 2x front, 1x second, 1x third, 2x fourth screw points; hence the numbers above for reference