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goody59
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:12 pm
Location: Wollert ((Melbourne outer northern suburb)

Hi

Post by goody59 »

Hi, returned member. MY18 Isuzu Dmax SX space cab chassis with canopy. Have built myself a tourer since purchasing from new Feb 2019.
goody59
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:12 pm
Location: Wollert ((Melbourne outer northern suburb)

Re: Hi

Post by goody59 »

Just a summary of my build so far. Alloy tray. Solar panel over cabin angled up to top of canopy, dual batteries, TJM Outback T13 bull bar and scrub bars and side steps, canvas canopy with extra 150mm height headboard with alloy roof and side rails from ProFit canopies, HR Xbar on rear, Aisin manual locking hubs, TJM winch, Safara snorkel, 40lt Engel fridge in cabin, full tray of Drifta drawers for camping and recovery gear, Rhino Rack Batwing 270 awning, Kickass Shower tent, second pre fuel filter, Flashlube catch can, full set of Boos Bash plates with transfer case plate to still be fitted, Uhf radio, Fyrlyt 5000 driving lights, second spare wheel, 60lt under tray diesel tank and 40lt under tray water tank. Lovells GVM upgrade pre first registration. Permanant double swag and extra self inflating mattress on drawer base in canopy. Power distribution panel with associated light switches for LED lighting in canopy. Extra usb and 12v ciggy sockets in cabin. Twin fire extinguishers under front seats. Stock steel wheels and oem AT tyres so far, Toyos Open Country II going on next in just the oem size 245/70 R 16. Stedi LED headlight H4s. All the needed recovery gear required. Hi lift jack still to come along with pair of original Maxxtrax. Tinted side windows. Weighs in at about 3T before extra fuel and water in under tray poly tanks. Baby Weber comes along for the ride. Manual gearbox. Built for the wife and I to tour versus serious off road rock climbing use.
mydmax
Posts: 1807
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: Hi

Post by mydmax »

Hello Goody.
Interesting to read the vast array of additions to your vehicle. Is it only for touring and not rock climbing as you indicated? It seems a lot of weight without the tanks filled. May be a different point of view but I found no need for a winch if only touring. Contemplated fitting more lights but if touring there was no night driving to need them. I have 300+ watts of solar on dc ute roof/canopy to run engel and smaller waeco. I did buy a bull bar but found I never need it. If your vehicle is so heavy, maybe reinforce the rear axle tube outwards of the springs to stop tube flex and possible fracture. If towing especially!
Regards
mydmax
goody59
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:12 pm
Location: Wollert ((Melbourne outer northern suburb)

Re: Hi

Post by goody59 »

Hi mydmax,
It is for touring Australia, camping, Vic High Country. It is accommodation too as we sleep in the canopy on the drawer base. Drawers hold all my recovery gear and camping gear. All the fruit adds up as you know that is why I went with GVM GCM upgrade from Lovells. I will mostly be at the 3 T mark and have no intention of towing. Good tip on rear axle reinforcing. I will look into it. It will be rare that I use the extra 60lt diesel tank under tray. The 40lt water tank under tray will get used though. No weight up top other than a 2nd spare for more remote touring on the odd occasions. I was going to post to you actually. This forum has died in the ass since I joined in 2014. I used forum to get ideas on a Dmax purchase and build. 5 years in the planning nearly. LOL. Got it now. Love it. Did a lot of work myself which I enjoyed. I drove to Brisbane just to get canvas canopy and alloy roof done by ProFit Canopies. Got the drawers fitted on way back at Drifta NSW. I live in Melbourne. TJM for bar work and winch. The electrical work I have mostly done myself. Pretty happy with end result. Will go Toyo Open Country AT II for next tyres but at oem size 245/7 R 16. I have Superior Engineering diff drop kit as with GVM upgrade, it was neary 2 inch lift. Manual locking hubs. Cary spare CV joint, steering rack end and sway bar links with me. Have a reasonable tool kit in there too. I get good fuel economy. Flashlube Catch can, egr delete cable from Munji, prefuel filter. Second battery. It is heavy but I am ok with that. Home on wheels.
east Island dmax
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2018 6:49 pm
Location: New Zealand

Re: Hi

Post by east Island dmax »

Hi, Great to read about your build, if you can, great to see photos. a couple of questions, is dust an issue for your canopy ,any suggestions to keep dust out ,and what tools are required to change a CV on the side of a track.would like to carry one as a spare also.
Cheers
bob
mydmax
Posts: 1807
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:36 pm

Re: Hi

Post by mydmax »

EI dmax
If a cv breaks it most likely has cracked the bell, 10mm socket to remove FWH cap (if fitted) then circlip pliers for axle circlip, then Allen key for the 6 hub set screws. Tools to undo lower ball joint and or upper ball joint bolts too. Extract the bell from hub and inspect damage. New bell and trunnion probably required. Hope the drive shaft outer spline isn't screwed. When reassembling trunnion and bell with grease, make sure NO grease is between the boot to bell seating groove or it will probably slip off even though the peripheral band seems tight. Now drive more carefully after reassembly.
goody59
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:12 pm
Location: Wollert ((Melbourne outer northern suburb)

Re: Hi

Post by goody59 »

east Island dmax wrote: Sun Sep 27, 2020 7:08 am Hi, Great to read about your build, if you can, great to see photos. a couple of questions, is dust an issue for your canopy ,any suggestions to keep dust out ,and what tools are required to change a CV on the side of a track.would like to carry one as a spare also.
Cheers
bob
Hi Bob,
Got no idea how to add photos. Re dust, I had two positive pressure vents added in canvas at front of canopy. Haven't tried them on long stretches of dry dirt roads yet. Tools covered in above post. Sockets, spanners, circlip pliers, hub socket, torque wrench, cv itself (genuine) tierod end, ball joint separator, swaybar links. Incase a whole corner of components go, got it covered. Even if I lack the ability for a failure repair, I have those parts to supply for repair.
goody59
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:12 pm
Location: Wollert ((Melbourne outer northern suburb)

Re: Hi

Post by goody59 »

mydmax wrote: Sun Sep 27, 2020 8:50 am EI dmax
If a cv breaks it most likely has cracked the bell, 10mm socket to remove FWH cap (if fitted) then circlip pliers for axle circlip, then Allen key for the 6 hub set screws. Tools to undo lower ball joint and or upper ball joint bolts too. Extract the bell from hub and inspect damage. New bell and trunnion probably required. Hope the drive shaft outer spline isn't screwed. When reassembling trunnion and bell with grease, make sure NO grease is between the boot to bell seating groove or it will probably slip off even though the peripheral band seems tight. Now drive more carefully after reassembly.
All great advice, cheers!
goody59
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:12 pm
Location: Wollert ((Melbourne outer northern suburb)

Re: Hi

Post by goody59 »

Our cvs and associated corner components are our weakest points in a touring Dmax, especially raised or if you add bigger tyres. Sticking with stock size tyres and a diff drop up front for the raise that comes with GVM upgrade.
Tink
Posts: 2025
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 10:54 pm
Location: Darling Downs. Qld

Re: Hi

Post by Tink »

Totally new front end in the new 2021 Dmax. Let’s see how it goes offroad.

Tink
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