Hi All,
I have a RC Colorado 2011 4WD Diesel Auto LTR about 275k km.
Makes grinding notchy (drivetrain?) noise when in 4WD reverse, and when in 4WD forward when turning (reasonably tightly) but not when going straight.
Can feel the vehicle shudder when slowly moving, thought it was wheel slipping due to binding and front and rear wheels slipping due binding when in grass or loose material, but now am now not so sure, as it happens in reverse with minimal loading.
No issues in forward under heavy load or acceleration when in 4WD going straight.
No issues in 2WD at all.
Does not seem good at all. Have had this vehicle since new and have not noticed before.
Could it be Front Diff, CVs, Transfer case, the automatic hub locking mechanism? I have no idea.
Suggestions please.
RC Colorado 2011 - 4WD Noise
Re: RC Colorado 2011 - 4WD Noise
Sounds like CV joints to me, might be worth having a closer look at them. They've lasted 275K so I assume that you don't use 4WD on hard surfaces- a practice which will quickly destroy a CV joint.
Re: RC Colorado 2011 - 4WD Noise
KA74
Have agree with Mike C about the possible outer CV joints. Your vehicle doesn't have autolocking hubs as STD although they may have been fitted. You only get drive/power/torque to the front CV's when in 4WD mode. Faulty CV's don't make noise when straight ahead but on lock as the balls run over the wear troughs, from unworn to worn surfaces in their grooves. They make a crunching/clicking sound when on lock and taking torque/drive because the balls units are effectively stepping up and down across an uneven (worn) curved groove surface. If you have FWH hubs they don't run at any time, UNTIL, you lock the hubs to enable 4WD.
Have agree with Mike C about the possible outer CV joints. Your vehicle doesn't have autolocking hubs as STD although they may have been fitted. You only get drive/power/torque to the front CV's when in 4WD mode. Faulty CV's don't make noise when straight ahead but on lock as the balls run over the wear troughs, from unworn to worn surfaces in their grooves. They make a crunching/clicking sound when on lock and taking torque/drive because the balls units are effectively stepping up and down across an uneven (worn) curved groove surface. If you have FWH hubs they don't run at any time, UNTIL, you lock the hubs to enable 4WD.
Re: RC Colorado 2011 - 4WD Noise
Mike C and Mydmax,
FYI
Have had servicing mechanics check the car and it appears the front diff mount bushes are worn (look ok at rest but when loaded the front diff angle tilts and the universal joint angle is too much and makes the noise). They had someone drive and someone observe at ground level.
The CV's were my 1st reaction too. They are ok.
Will advise when they are replaced if this solves it.
Thanks for the responses, it all helps. Noises are hard to describe correctly.
KA74
FYI
Have had servicing mechanics check the car and it appears the front diff mount bushes are worn (look ok at rest but when loaded the front diff angle tilts and the universal joint angle is too much and makes the noise). They had someone drive and someone observe at ground level.
The CV's were my 1st reaction too. They are ok.
Will advise when they are replaced if this solves it.
Thanks for the responses, it all helps. Noises are hard to describe correctly.
KA74
Re: RC Colorado 2011 - 4WD Noise
Thanks for letting us know. Hopefully its a cheap fix.
Re: RC Colorado 2011 - 4WD Noise
Update
It was the front diff bushes, they were knackered, looked ok but when levered they allowed about 15mm axial movement. Appears they had slowly worn out and when in 4wd under load in reverse or sharper turns the diff was tilting so that the angle was too tight to drive shaft.
Cheapish fix. Bushes were a couple of hundred dollars but a reasonable amount of labour (cv's out etc).
I have been running old man emu shockers and 300kg constant rear springs (for 50mm lift) since near new - about 260k km now, so it has been a pretty good run.
Am looking to put the Munji 4x4 Accecories Diff drop kit in to reduce angle. Should help (the next 250k km). Probably should have done this 10 years ago. https://munji.com.au/products/diff-drop-kit
It was the front diff bushes, they were knackered, looked ok but when levered they allowed about 15mm axial movement. Appears they had slowly worn out and when in 4wd under load in reverse or sharper turns the diff was tilting so that the angle was too tight to drive shaft.
Cheapish fix. Bushes were a couple of hundred dollars but a reasonable amount of labour (cv's out etc).
I have been running old man emu shockers and 300kg constant rear springs (for 50mm lift) since near new - about 260k km now, so it has been a pretty good run.
Am looking to put the Munji 4x4 Accecories Diff drop kit in to reduce angle. Should help (the next 250k km). Probably should have done this 10 years ago. https://munji.com.au/products/diff-drop-kit