I like the idea of modifying the fuse.mydmax wrote:Valkie.
Just hang on a minute, you are not a dummy, you have found most items and just require some other info.
If there is a high beam relay, ie, labelled as such in the lid of fuse box, then it will have (most likely 4 pins), two small and two larger. One of the small ones will be directly connected to negative.
The one of those in the base, which is connected to negative is the earthing for the relay coil, the other will become +ve when the stalk switch is set for high and also when HB flash is performed. If you can test those two base socket holes with a multi meter set on 12v and it turn on and off the meter reading with low to high selection then all good. That +ve wire or pin on relay may then be used for the activation of the Led bar relay, either by splicing into the wire or as I mentioned a few strands of wire wrapped only around that pin on the relay would suffice.
If when you select high beam from low beam and the relay clicks, then it is probable you can use it in this way so as to not alter anything but still obtain a Led bar relay coil feed.
Hope this makes sense.
If you think the wires going to the LED headlights controller can be used, one of them must originate from the main loom and high beam signal. Obviously the wires going from there to the headlights are not the ones, only those which come from the loom, if identified, one of them has to be positive only when high is ON. With a very sharp multimeter probe, ie, pin window sharp, it can be probed while switching between Low/High beam to check if it is the positive high beam signal.
All a bit of fiddling though.
Asking Isuzu or motor houses for bits to do it is often beyond them and they have no idea. it would be god if someone has a circuit diagram, that always helps.
With the two fuses you have identified, do they become on and off when high and low are alternately selected or are both ON all the time the headlights are turned on. If alternating, the High can be used with piggy back. Lacking piggy back fuse, You can use a normal blade fuse and file one side near top so a thin wire can be soldered to it, that becomes your signal wire
I'll try and check the fuses today, as long as SWMBO gives me time.
Weekends generally are devoted to "doing things" that need to be done.
Alternately, I might be able to modify the piggy back to get the wire coming out the top rates than the side, this will solve that problem.
I tried looking for the feed wire from the high beam switch, as you suggested, but there is several looms behind the dash and I hate fiddling blind.
I plan to purchase a voltage probe, when I can find one, these things can detect live wires without having to poke holes in wires.
I had one years ago, but lent it to a mate who has since gone interstate, gone forever.
If I can find the feed for high beam behind the dash, it woukd be perfect.
I'll post how I go in the next week.
Thanks for your help